Pass two trees and several loose looking blocks in the dihedral (the second tree appears to have welded most of these blocks firmly in place) to a no hands stance under a roof on the right side of the dihedral. Squeeze up into the off-width crack above the roof to find a hidden hold (your own personal epiphany) to make surmounting the roof a manageable 5.6. Continue up the easy dihedral to the top.

Epiphanies

The Exercise of Vital Powers

No Surrender, No Retreat

Falling Towards Apotheosis

Start by the broken blocks near an inconvenient tree. Ascend the blocks to a big horizontal that takes a BD #2. A fall above this cam could put you on the tree, beware. Make big reaches to sharp horizontal crimps. Move left 3-5ft along the second thin horizontal to where it opens up enough to plug a BD #0.4. Work straight through the left facing flake feature above, which may require a precise sequence (crux) to a good horizontal crack that takes a black tricam or a BD #0.5. Move right a couple feet along this horizontal, find small feet that allow you to make a big reach up and right to a sharp black horizontal crack that is blocked on the left side. Find another crappier edge for your left hand and bump a hand up to a good ledge to finish (beware of glass on the ledge).

Step on a block on the right side of the rock jutting out from the bottom of the Tower. Pull onto the jutting rock and use the crack in the roof above to stabilize your reach over the roof. A high right foot and a big pull let you reach a right facing flake. Use the flake to reach a horizontal slot. Move from slot to slot with occasionally long reaches to the top (likely at the bottom of the precarious stack of rocks forming the top of the Tower).

Work up the face on nice horizontal edges, angle left at the first overhang and make a long reach to a left facing hunk of rock above (either a right-hand gaston or a left hand layback depending on your angle of approach). Snag the huge detached flake on the right. The flake can be slung or a take a passive tricam, but is a bad candidate for any active protection. Stay on the far left side of the detached flake and make another reach to the only apparent chunk of rock on the high face. Use this chunk to pull your way to a crack and the top out.

Pillar of slabs stacked atop of it like a square, steep smokestack. This is mostly small overhanging faces with a few deeper roofs of 2-3 feet. Two faces have good routes on them, one of which starts down in a hole.  Belaying is done from the scree field. There are a lot of loose rocks on the wall, so helmets are recommended for climber and belayer.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tower of Babylon