Juj Monster is a full on adventure route up a series of large roofs and scoops. I personally found the climbing to be wildly creative and fun. The rock is good with the exception of the loose chimney on P4. Welcome to Zion.

P1: 5.11-

P2: 5.11

P3: 5.8

P4: 5.10

P5: 5.11+

P6: 5.12

P7: 5.8

P8: 5.7

Juj Monster

Solstice of Change

PITCH 1: Start up a gorgeous splitter crack in the middle of the slab. The crack starts with hand jams.  When the crack narrows to blue TCUs traverse right about 20 feet (a little heady) to join another splitter crack, which again starts with hands.  Belay here to reduce rope drag, or continue up this splitter which narrows to fingers.  Again, make a crack switch left to a right facing corner about 5 feet left.  Mantle onto a small ledge at the base of a slanting, low-angle offwidth.  Continue up the OW till it narrows to thin hands.  Place a high piece and traverse left to another splitter, which leads to a nice belay ledge with a bolt and pin anchor. (This is a full 65 meter pitch if led in one pitch.)

PITCH 2: Do not go straight up from the belay into the chimney, which eats ropes for lunch.  Instead, step right and climb past some loose rock to a gorgeous splitter finger crack through a roof.  Continue on Red-Rocks-esque patina rock with fun splitter fingers to the base of an OW with a bolt.  Continue up the offwidth and mantle onto a ledge with two bolts.

You could continue several pitches of easy terrain to a false summit, but the climbing is not nearly as good, so we recommend rappelling.  Do not rappel straight down the corner from the 2nd pitch belay.  Instead, rappel back the way you climbed and friction back to the P1 belay ledge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in north fork temp