Thin, sustained, face climbing past 9 bolts,

Spanky's Delight

Stairway to Heaven

The Big Stick

Political Nightmare

Harder Crystal climbing for the first few bolts leads to a really enjoyable dike / feature. The route then passes the midway rap anchors and tends right at the ledge up to a dihedral / gully to a summit block.

This is one of those few Black Hills gear routes, no bolts until you hit the anchors.  Steep and sustained on great pro!  It is recommended that you scramble to the summit, the views are outstanding!

This line starts on a cracked face.The Busse/Burr guidebook rates this as 5.8 PG-13. You can place some small piece(s) here. It feels like an easy boulder problem so if you boulder alot there really shouldn't be a PG13 rating feels like a highball thats easy. Moves up to a balancing like rock you can place a cam here with a long sling and then pull the bulge and up to the anchor. Doesn't look like much but turns out to be a fun warm up.

This climb is kind of hidden from a distance the rock looks beautiful color wise. The rock quality is good still could use alittle clean up. Look for the obvious crack splitting the NW face. It feels like a boulder problem down low. Or if you like cracks it will probably feel like any other crack... There is a one fixed pin and 3 bolts lead you up the side of the spire and to the anchor.

Morning shade or afternoon sun, whichever you want.  It can be windy on the west face terraces.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Horsethief Spire West Face