Other Intentions

Wasatch Harlem

Hand Drills Suck!

Lyin & Cryin

Educated Idiot

Wasatch Harlem is a fun albeit mildly intimidating romp up one of the big slabs directly below the Fin.

Start in a dirty gully climbing loose-ish choss for about 40' until you can step right on the slab at the first bolt. Traversing shenanigans will get you to the 3rd bolt and the first crux, a bit of slab wizardry getting in and out of a scoop and up (or around) a blunt arete. Take a breath on the ledge and fire up the next steep slab section aiming for a fat chickenhead. Clip the 5th bolt and head up another blunt arete aiming for to a grungy-looking crack up a steeper face. Shoot up the patina to another bolt and the anchor up on the slab.

If you're an idiot and can't read a topo you can skip the finish and instead traverse right along the dirty crack to the 1st anchor of

Other Intentions

(not bad, bit gritty).

This route climbs a slab up and to the right (east)of the Mormon vault. Start with an old smc hanger in the middle of a slab in the trees.  Above this hanger, arch up and left via natural protection.  Head towards a clean slab with three new bolts.  Above these bolts climb up and right to a two bolt belay.  On rope barely gets you back down.

A very easy but relatively entertaining 3 pitch romp.

P1: 5.7. 3 clips then easy terrain up a crack/face to chains on the left.

P2: 5.7+. Up the obvious bolt line starting with a pin. Thought the crux of the route was here not on P1 as the Granite Guide suggests.

Head directly up to the roof and place a directional for your follower then walk right to chains.

P3: 5.6. Link a clusterfest of chicken heads via clips until a move left lands you in a crack and then up to chains.

Not sure you can link any pitches due to the nature of P2.

Work up the slightly gritty and somewhat runout slab past 3 bolts up to the small overhang where the rock becomes more featured. Some gear placements are available shortly before reaching the mini-roof (Yellow C3 worked well). Step up over the roof and clip 3 more bolts en route to the chains. The final 15 feet or so work up a cool arete.

70 meter rope required!

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Fin