Alternate first pitch to the Waltz with good climbing and a fun roof. Start under the obvious roof at the base of the Waltz formation on the river side. Climb up and through the bulge and continue up the fun, juggy dihedral. A nice long pitch that tops out on the first of the three buttresses

Schuhplattler

Trundler's Delight

Paso Doble

Dirty Dancing

I Am A Wicked Child (2nd Pitch)

Disco Inferno

Passing the Torch

Funky Dynamics

Compact Disc

Death Route

Pumpkin-Spiced Mocha Frito

The Waltz

Rhino Crack

Too Hot to Tango

Bohemian Flares

Slam Dance

Disco Ball

Unnamed/Jimbo's

This one is posted up primarily as a caveat to any future suitors...it was done on-sight, ground-up and almost no cleaning was done beside a few necessary block hucks, so the route remains very dirty and has some potential death-blocks. The climbing is decent, and with a major cleaning it would be an ok line, but in it's present state it's probably best avoided...

Dirty Dancing follows an obvious dihedral system, with a prominent roof 1/2 way up, on the nothwest prow of the 2nd Tier of the Waltz. From the base of the wall, scramble out the mossy ledge to the far right side and belay (marginal gear anchor. The lower 25' of the dihedral are shared with Paso Doble's 1st pitch, before it cuts a hard left at a bolt. Continue straight up the corner above, with a few suspect blocks and a good finger/thin-hand crack. Awkwardly turn the big roof on the left and make insecure, hard moves to get established beneath a good fingercrack. Crank this into an ever widening and progressively easier crack system to the top. It gets off-width near the end, but is easy. There are one or two big sketchy blocks on this final system to avoid! Belay off the three bolt anchor atop Paso. Rap down Dirtburper in one 35m rap to the ground.

This pitch takes way more gear than it seems looking up at it from the bottom. Build a gear belay in the cracks at the base of the Waltz P2, and clip in until you get your first few pieces placed. Walk left along the narrow, exposed ledge about 15', and head up the face into a nice finger crack (one move up and you can plug gear). You will pass several horizontal seams, a bolt, and then go left of the obvious roof mid-pitch. Make a fun hand traverse, then up some more OK cracks, passing the 2nd bolt near the top. Belay at chains.

This route is intimidating looking, but I assure you there is plenty of good gear!

Descent:

Rappel route w/ 70m rope or use chains further back on buttress to rappel off the south side (preferred if busy).

P1: Start on arete until it's possible to gain the left facing corner above. A bolt protects the traverse to the belay.(5.8)

P2: Follow the face above through 3 roofs/bulges. The climbing gets progressively harder toward the top.(5.11c)

From the first pitch of "I am a Wicked Child" move belay to pruned tree up and left below a open corner roof.  Climb up and place a medium stopper.  A 15'  V4/5 boulder problem with tough gear leads to a series of left-trending hanging corners.  One bolt marks the exit of the corners to a horizontal break with a small pine. At this point start placing all manner of small gear. Step onto the bulging face via a 5.10+ move and climb 50' of flared crack to a tough face finish with large fall potential (2"-3" gear needed). Clip anchors or climb 10' of fourth class and gear belay (hands sized) to the walk-off top of The Waltz 3rd Tier.

Ascends the crack splitting the roof of the south side of the 2nd tier of The Waltz. Finger to small hands gear is needed for the start, the roof, and immediately following the roof. 2 hangers protect the crux at the top. Two hangers exist at the top for setting up a top rope. Walk off the south side of the 2nd tier.

Climbs the bolted arete, trending slightly to the right. Once on the block, finger/hand crack gets you to the top.

Start on the north facing wall in the gully directly south of "The Fugitive".  A 5.9 left-leaning well protected crack leads up and to a bolt on a clean face as the crack peters out.  Step into the funk. Another bolt protects a devious/steeper than it looks crux. Bust through techie friction stances to a purple Metolius sized placement (key!) and decent sidepulls and crimps. One more bolt protects a fun/slappy finish.  Excellent stone throughout.  FFA was done without last bolt, but it's much funnier with.  Chains.

A variation of the 2nd pitch of The Waltz. Good rock and sunny exposure.

Steep hands and fingers. Watch our for loose blocks up high.

P1: Start the same as Dirtburper, but head up and right to a vague system that continues into a R-facing corner. 11b PG-13

P2: From the Dirtburper ledge anchors, instead of stepping left head straight up the thin crack with spaced but generally good gear. One bolt provides a safer exit.

A fun Canyon romp, The Waltz ascends up three large steps from close to the canyon floor. The pitches end on huge ledges with bolted anchors. The faces all go with pretty reasonable protection.

Pitch 1 (5.6)

Head up aiming for a large ledge over easy blocky terrain (5.4) and gain the face. I wouldn't suggest placing too much on this first bit or the rope drag will be somewhat unbearable later. Head up the face through many small cracks and huge jugs. The bolts are on the left right as you top out. You can scramble off the right side from here if you don't wish to climb any further. If wishing to continue, scramble along the top of the rib to the base of the next pitch.

Pitch 2 (5.6)

Head up following the large crack that takes great gear and is a super enjoyable romp. Anchors are on the left or the right when you top out this pitch. To continue onto pitch three, head to the back of the rib and either rappel or downscramble the fin to the base of the next tier (gear anchor). You can also rappel off the right side to escape from the top of this rib.

Alternate Pitch 2: Trundler's Delight (5.10)

Pitch 3 (5.6)

From the base of the fin, climb up through various flaring crack features (tricky gear) to gain a broad ledge and then head to a tree towards the right edge. Set up a belay here and bring the second up this very short (but exposed) pitch. Mostly done simply to set up for the last pitch and to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 4 (5.8)

Starting from the south edge of the belay tree, climb up a broad corner approximately 15 feet and then step out left onto the main face. Climb up the main face using whatever features seem most interesting (many variations possible), generally staying on the right 1/3rd of the face, aiming for a large ledge crossing the face at 3/4 height. This ledge is most easily exited by taking a groove from the left edge to the top, but many variations are possible.There is a two bolt anchor on a small ledge just before the top that makes a convenient belay. Due to the wandering nature of this pitch, watch out for rope drag. More difficult to protect than the former pitches, this last one is skipped by many just looking for a warmup/romp. Descend by walking off the backside to the right (south).

Alternate Pitch 4: "The Patagonia Variation" (5.8)

Start as normal, but continue up the broad corner through several overlaps (tricky gear), aiming for a bolt ~50' up from the belay. From the bolt, continue up and then left onto the main face.

Start on a hand crack, which then turns to fists then offwidth. Short and sweet.

Climb up to the top of gray blocks near bottom of the face. Climb thin crack from blocks. Finish climb with a hand crack.

Climb up and through cracks to a stance at a small bulge with a finger crack on the right.  Pull the tricky bulge on good gear and then climb up past 5 bolts.  Plenty of stemming and smearing with a tough crux through the last 2 bolts.  Friction climbing galore.

Thin climbing near the arete leads to difficulties forcing one left around the arete to the river facing prow of the buttress, stay frosty.

Another way to get to the top of the south face of the 2nd tier of the Waltz. It's worth doing if Disco Inferno is insurmountable.

Really fun, varied climbing. Stemming and liebacking up a low-angle dihedral leads to an awesome overhanging fingers/face climbing finish atypical of the Gally. Seems to have cleaned up nicely.  Known as "Jimbo's" in the Vassilopoulos guidebook.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Waltz Formation