Still very dirty, hard to say, parts of it are very fun and interesting.

I am guessing they meant it to be just bolts, because there is a bolt next to a good crack.

The anchor is low ? and very ugly rusty one. I guess because the climbing however good above is too easy and runs into the Siderinder.

It starts near the middle of the face with some thin face moves on a steep slab ( 1st crux ), traverses right with undercling, then follows a crack and face to the anchor (2nd crux after the hand jam slot), I cleaned the corner above the anchor and think it is a logical finish to go to the top. After passing old anchor inside corner with some dyke holds, arete pulling then ramp up to meet Siderinder at it's last mashed head rusty bolt.I would have to add 1 or 2 bolts to this extension.

A Bobcats Lament

A Date with Dale

Siderinder

This is a work in progress. I am probably the first person to visit this wall for at least 20 years based on the anchor slings, vegetation and dirt.

It was given a 10a rating, and I think there are 2 crux moves around the lower and upper bolts that is more like 10b.

This is a mix of slab with some run-out bolts and flakes with cracks, there are 4 lead bolts and if it were up to me I would add 1 or 2 more bolts.

All but one of the bolts are badly rusted ( 1 bolt is SS )

The hangers are all SS.

It is cleaner now ( 11/11/18 ) but still dangerous with bad bolts.

I added a new SS anchor a bit higher then the old one. 1/21/19

Why is it that when the climbing is hard the route is really well protected? Is it because 5.10 is damned easy you can run it out?

I was greatly relieved when I found most of the bolts and hangers to be SS. There are a few that are rusty steel.

This is a great route, I could not climb parts of it ( the 5.12 crux ) but it is really cool.

You go straight up a blank slab to a roof, traverse right to a dyke/seam (12b ), follow line of bolts, and as Cramer says- Dyno.

Upper slab is fun- book says it is 11c.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sam Hill