Another worthwhile stop on the Boulder Canyon obscure trad tour.  Somewhat reminiscent of

FM

, but shorter, not as clean and less well-protected.  Rolofson gives it an R-, though I found it to be adequately protected, though there is a bit of a runout at the crux.  This climb looks a lot more licheny than it climbs.

Moderate stemming leads to harder stemming (crux), a bit of a rest and another hard move passing a bulge.  After the bulge cut right onto good holds or boldly go straight up (looked pretty hard) with pro increasingly far below you.

The pitch's length of 60' is somewhat misleading as the last 20' are easy (and unprotected) slabbing up to the anchors at the end of

Amazing Face's

second pitch.

The corner faces SW so it stays in the shade for a while on hot summer days.

Bloodstone

Lucky Strike

Chihuahua Enchilada

Singin' in the Rain

Next to Nothing

Oil Pan Hook Shot

Frothing Green

Woody's Landlord

Take the Termites Bowling

Amazing Face

Bowling Ball and Chain

Pooky Proof

Digital Divide

Super Bon Bon

Shiny Dog

Meteor Rhoadblock

Bad Girls Get Spanked

Midge Squadron

Mosquito Burrito

Gutter Ball

This is a cool route up the smooth headwall left of

Meteor Roadblock

. Fun 5.11 leads to steeper and harder climbing. There is a little glue but no chipping.

There is a 2nd pitch.

5.11c (R=Rolofson). Like many routes on the wall, the grading may be soft or simply not the same for everyone. LS is the furthest left of the routes on the Bowling Alley proper and just right of the Mineshaft. Run up through some funky blocks for about 5.10 and then surmount the bulge on sloper moves. It has solid rock, but this is a bit weird for my taste.

This route lies about 8 feet to the right of the start of "

Mosquito Burrito

," and on the same face.  In the attached picture, "

Mosquito Burrito

" is the climb drawn in.

Hike up the trail from Pratice Rock as for "

Bad Girls

" or "

Mosquito Burrito

."  Scramble up to the clean face on a 3rd class slab, which lies below.  Clip the belayer to the first bolt  of

Mosquito-Burrito

on a 5-6 foot section of rope, as the belay is insecure and you do NOT want to blow the crux if your belayer is on the ground.  You would be injured without a doubt.  Perhaps it would be even wiser to clip the first bolt of Mosquito Burrito with a long runner, but you still should not blow the crux.

Start the route at the far right of the roof below and right of Mosquito...  Get a hold of the two sloping rails  and use those and smearing foot to propel yourself to a "sloper jug" at the lip of the overhang/roof.  Set your feet and CRANK to a reasonable hold up and right very close to the arete near the roof.  Once this hold is grasped, the rest is footwork.  The moves are really fun

Continue up the arete, where there are a few options to set stoppers, continuing to the top.  At the top, traverse left 6 feet to reach the anchors of

Mosquito Burrito

.

This climb may improve with traffic, as it is slightly dirty at this time.

This route is a fun route, with a definite crux and some short moderate runouts. It was done on TR to clean it, then lead FFA in the rain, thus the name. This route lies on the roof just off the ground to the right of "Oil Pan Hook Shot." Go up into a steep corner, then through the roof on a 18" section of handcrack and a finger lock out to the left. The crux is 5.10. An 'eliminate' problem avoiding the lefthand side and lefthand finger crack through the roof can also be done and probably comes in at around 5.11-- with the gear being difficult to get before the hard climbing starts.

Once through the roof, pulling the lip on solid incuts, proceed more or less straight up and then slightly left to join the arete, then finish on the arete left at the anchors of the nearby moderate sport climb. There are stopper placements near the top that make clipping the last bolt of the sport route you converge with unnecessary, even in the rain. Top out or clip the anchors of the sport route.

A reasonably fun route with a fun crux -- gymnastic if you eliminate the lefthand wall, but fun either way. Not long or sustained enough to merit more stars.

Just right of "

Frothing Green

" is "Next to Nothing".

A pumpy line with three distinct cruxes, each successively harder than the last.  The first crux is 11d, the next 12a, and the last 12b.  Involves intricate stemming and lunging and some significant power at the last crux to avoid the barn door effect.

There is a 2nd pitch.

Per

Aeon Aki

: The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the

Amazing Face

chains and call it good.

This route is located on the upper tier of 'The Bowling Alley'. Climb the gully to the right of '

Take the Termites...

' up to a ledge at the base of 2 bolted routes on the upper right hand side of the main wall. This route is the leftmost of the 2 routes. The crux comes at you right off the ground. There are 3 close bolts, (10+ back to back moves) once past this crux (keeping feet and hands away from the crack system left) the climbing eases to a final move to the anchor. The bottom of the route has nice moves but the rest leaves a little to be desired. Have fun.. You can toprope this route with a 60m rope by climbing up and around the routes to the right.

Frothing Green starts just right of the tree that is left of the central cluster of routes on the main wall. Run up on intermittent blocks and ledges. The line finds the best continuity on a wall otherwise disrupted by frequent ledge systems. A few spicy run-outs on jugs leads to a technical slab for the last 30 feet of the line. The slab is fun and can be done so as to pick up a jug haul arete for the last 15 feet. I did not detect any manufactured holds on this route.

To the right of

Chihuahua Enchilada

is a gully which leads to a dihedral.  Climb up the gully avoiding sending debris down on your partner.  Pull a weird move onto the mossy dihedral.  Pull left, through the nice hand-crack, topping out on a large block.  Continue up the face above to a tree belay.

This route is the farthest right in the gully which separates the two separate rock formations at the bowling alley.  There are three routes here that are really close together.  One of them should of been left as a toprope.  Climb up on good golds to a seam, lieback and an interesting crux.  The bolts stay on your left for most of the climb.  They seem to be a little far to the left for the bottom, but that might be due to loose rock.

This route is located on the upper tier of 'The Bowling Alley'. Climb the gully to the right of 'Take the Termites...' up to a ledge at the base of 2 bolted routes on the upper right hand side of the main wall. This route is the rightmost of the 2 routes, beside 'Oil Pan Hook Shot'. I am not sure what Rick was thinking, but he must have been desperate to put new routes up, this one could have been left out.

The climbing starts atop a block past the first bolt, over a little roof on good holds and then up the slab to the last 2 bolts on the arete. Here the climbing is just not fun, straightforward, but to keep away from the corner makes a challenge, as there are few holds on the face. I would only do this route if you happen to expend the energy to check it out, without reading this. Do something else... :) It is pretty hard to get to the anchors, as they are over the edge a bit. If you try it, lower to the anchors from a tree above.

This is a less-than-vertical dihedral with a gear-eating crack. Belay from the rockseat under the tree. Scramble up 4th class to the route proper. Avoid two loose rocks -- one in the crack and one out to the right. Follow the crack to the two-ring anchor. 60-meter rope recommended.

Eds. the above name has been submitted via the FAs.

This route lies on the westface of the lower Bowling Alley Rock (to the left and around the corner of "Mosquito Burrito"). Gain a ledge and place gear in the lower crack, move up on good holds and finger jams to a tricky move to gain a ledge. Place small gear and fire up the thin crack to a wide(big hands)crack. Power up the crack and gain the slab. Belay from good gear or walk off to the east. There was no sign of any activity on this crack and we removed a large, loose flake/block at the crux. A good little crack with great moves.

Pre-clipping the first 2 bolts is recommended.  Start at the same flake as "

Shiny Dog

," but move up left past first 2 bolts to a big manufactured jug & 3rd bolt. Move right to a tips lieback hold (shared with "

Shiny Dog

") & gain a sloping shelf (12b).  The first ascent managed to climb straight up, past 3rd & 4th bolt, onto the shelf & rated the climb 5.12d, but I have never seen anyone other than Chris go this way.

Rest up on the shelf & climb the overhung dihedral with the crux past the last bolt. Bob D'Antonio's

Boulder Canyon

guidebook says climb the arete.  This is incorrect.  You climb the small dihedral with the right hand slapping the arete two or three times. Gain an undercling below the right side of a small roof (

Meteor Rhoadblock

goes out the left side) & clip the anchor above.  A final 5.12a sequence liebacks around the right side of the roof to a jug right of the anchor.

As for the manufactured jug, it was actually a replacement hold for a jug that pulled off.  It is possible to do the climb without making the bottom half of the route a bit harder.

This route is just to the left of

Take the Termites Bowling

and is squeezed.  Climb up good liebacks to a big move past the first bolt to a good right hand hold.  Skip the drilled pocket for more interesting climbing past the second bolt, and continue up the overhanging arete.  The climb using holds right next to the bolts on

Take the Termites Bowling

, but it does follow an independent line of moves. Skipping the pocket does not change the grade.

Climb the classic crack/corner line to a slot and a tough exit. It is complicated, but it has rests to soften the overall grade.

This is as great route. Belay from under the obvious tree. Scramble up the class 4 to the base of the left face. Follow the crack up and right. Cool move onto the ledge about 15 feet off the ground. Stand on the ledge and follow the vertical crack up to the horizontal slash (crux) then up and right to the undercling.  Another badass move on this route is the static move to the undercling. (Note: A big hold below the undercling is off limits. See red dot.) Layback to the ledge, then climb the left of two cracks up to the bolts.

This route lies about 6-10 feet left of "

Bad Girls Get Spanked"

and on the same face.  In the attached picture, "

Bad Girls

" is the climb drawn in.

Hike up the trail from Pratice Rock as for "

Bad Girls

" or "

Mosquito Burrito

."  Climb past the first two bolts on the rounded face and slab, which are shared with "

Bad Girls

," then pull onto the left-most line of bolts on the face on the left and run to the top.

Unlike

Bad Girls

, this climb is reasonably secure and is not seeping water out of crux holds. The exception here being the intial leftward moves to separate yourself from the shared protion of the climbs, where blowing a clip would be a very bad idea.

The climb is relatively long and a 60M is a good idea to lower off of the route.  I did not try this with a 50M, but it looked like it would be close.

See Mark Rolofson's Boulder Canyon Sport and Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon for details.

This is a well-protected beginning lead route. Belay from the base (the tree is no longer there), and scramble up the Class 4 to the base of the right side of a large dihedral. Move up, step onto the face, and follow the bolts up, staying on the right side of them.

Start up Frothing Green, after a couple of bolts traverse left under the striking crack.  Continue up overhanging S-shaped hand crack.  Go to the anchors on Lucky Strike.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Crag