This route is in the Todd Goss guidebook as a line called Not Free Yet, 5.10, A0.  There's no way to know if I was the first to free it and no matter, but for anyone interested it does go.  I think it's a great line with great moves and well worth doing if you're climbing in Cedar Canyon and want to plug some gear; a touch dirty but not too bad!

navigate crumbly ledges for 30' to crux bulge protected by two bolts, gain crack above and follow to top.  I utilized face features just to the left of crack near the top b/c it got too thin for me.

Not Free Yet

The Adventure Route Second Pitch

Rat Bone

Coronered

Sticks and Bones

Bone Garden

The Adventure Route

20 feet of cruxy choss lead to excellent climbing on unique features.

Crux comes at about 20 feet, leading into sustained V1 climbing for the rest of the route.

A fun to negotiate roof is located about 2/3 up the route.

After topping out The Adventure Route you climb the second pitch up the exposed arete looming above.  About 10 bolts and into exposed mantle at top of arete.  From here climb the last few meters to the anchors.  This last section can be protected with 1-2 medium pieces.  Excellent view and exposure.

Begins in chossy rock like the other routes on this wall and then transitions into better rock.  It joins into the Adventure route half way up the arete line and finishes on the Adventure Climb.  There are bolts below the  upper arete that will be a variation.  It is an open project as the moves are very difficult.  By finishing on the Adventure Climb it keeps the grade reasonable.

This is a three pitch aid line up and right (south) from the top of the rappel wall.

Pitch one:  locate bolts and rivets from the base. Ascend a bolt ladder with mixed gear placements to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch two: aid climb the dihedral to a hanging two bolt belay.  This pitch used both pitons and clean gear. Would likely go clean. Note: there is a bolt which is close to a good crack. On the first ascent, there was a huge block covering the crack. Only after the bolt was installed, could the block get removed

Pitch three:  traverse right under the roof via pitons nailed straight up into a crack to a bolt ladder that goes out the horizontal roof. After climbing out the roof, a horizontal crack will appear. Traverse left on this crack via knife blades and lost arrows.  One rivet and a few free moves will attain the “summit.”

Walk off to the east and down into the canyon to the north. This is the canyon with all the sport climbs

Fun route to set up a portaledge and hang out on

3 Star route on 2 star rock. Don't judge the route by the initial rock, it gets better about 15 feet up. Great pumpy route that requires moves that will help expand your bag of tricks.

Moves through tricky side-pulls, under-clings and laybacks for the first 45 feet. Crux comes 10 feet before a large roof at the half way point- small edges, gaston and bad feet lead to a big reach.

Pull the roof and head up large huecos for an other 45 feet. Don't let your guard down too early and don't pump out.

I recommend a helmet at least for your belayer the rock is a little suspect and couple thin flakes are found on the route, so don't yard to hard on them.

This is a really cool arete. The crux is a slabby move with devious holds, but a spectacular position!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rappel Wall Area