1. Gain a ledge, then follow a line of bolts up a smooth face (5.10a) to a good stance. Continue left past a lichen strip, then go straight up on easier rock to a hanging belay at a small tree on the left. 90', 5.10a   2. Move right along a ramp, plug in a small cam, and overcome a steep wall protected by bolts (5.10c). Nice moves on perfect granite lead past bolts to a horizontal crack and overlap. Two more bolts lead over another steep section (5.9) to a great ledge. After a 5.7 move, scramble up to a belay at a large pine. 175', 5.10c   3. Low angle face climbing leads straight up to a bolt at 40'. Follow a shallow groove with pockets to the top and a tree belay. Take a few moments to relax and enjoy the scenery. The view is one of the best in the mountains. 110', 5.6 

  Descent: 3 rappels lead to the ground. First, rap back down to the pine. The next rap station is 160' straight down. The final rap ends at the start of the route.

Kindred Spirits

Days of Our Lives

Regurgitation

Like sand through the hourglass, Days of Our Lives climbs a series of well protected and distinct sections on the far left side of the cliff. With excellent rock and gentle movement, it offers a pleasant adventure. The solitary view and cozy belay ledges will give you and yours plenty of time to catch up. Pitch 1: 5.10. 11 Bolts. 40m.  Clamber to the top of the boulder that leans into the slab, and follow a line of bolts up steepening rock, stepping left onto a perfectly white granite slab. Continue up the slab, bustin' a move to the left to reach a tidy belay ledge and a two bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 5.10. 4 Bolts, Cams/Nuts fingers to 1", 30m.  Head  up into the shallow corner on both gear and bolts. As the crack quickly fizzles out, pull some high steppin' wizardry (or go BIG!) through a bolt protected crux moving leftward. Continue up to the next amazing belay ledge.Pitch 3. 5.8. 59m. 5 bolts. Head rather directly up utilizing a beautiful vein, pockets, and perfect smears. As the angle kicks back enjoy the romp to the highest point of the cliff, and a two bolt anchor. 

P1. Traverse right on a horizontal ramp/crack until below a left facing dihedral. Establish a belay. P2. Climb a nice crack in a left facing dihedral. An option would be to do some face moves on bolts straight up to the dihedral to make this a single pitch. 

  I remember taking a sizable fall on this as my belayer Steve Golden had a huge loop of slack out. After I drilled the anchors I came down and puked. Lots of partying at Plymouth back then. Steve Dupuis did P1.

Very secluded slab climbing on high quality stone, up to 3 pitches tall. The right side is shorter, with some steeper sections with corners and cracks. Expect to deal with some vegetation at the base of the climbs since the cliff receives few visits, but once above, the rock looks to be super nice almost white granite. There is plenty of room for new routing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Meadow Brook Slabs