Start at the overhang just below the first bolt, the crux is below the first of 3 bolts and the climbing gets easier the higher you go.  Use a stick clip or be tall to protect the opening hard moves as a fall from just a few feet off the ground could send you down the hill.  

 Somebody marked it in chalk as 11a and that felt about right to me.  

 I tried to toprope this climb before I lead it but all the loose rock at the top made me wish I had just lead it right off the bat.

 Any extra info on the climb or the crag would be greatly appreciated

Unknown 2

Torch Light

Spat

Orange Marmalade

Brits on Holaday

Unknown 1

Spit

Shale Yeah

Big chunks of rock down low look bad but feel good, follow the three bolts up the short but sweet overhanging rock.  As the angle eases up the crux starts.  Feels a little stiff to me but it probably fits in well with the rest of the area.This might be the only climb here that a toprope is a real option, if you scramble up the gully and head left the bolts can easily be reached.  BE CAREFUL with the loose rock and dirt in the gully and extend your anchor past the sharp ledgeComment if you know the name

This route is fun! Might be a little harder than 10b. 

  Climb up some easy choss.  Come to a overhanging bulge.  clip the first bolt and start up a thin crack with crimps on the face.  After clipping the 2nd bolt, pull over the bulge.  At the top of the bulge, clip 3'rd. Work up the lichen overgrown slab, run out.  Go over 1' roof.  I have fallen here and it's long.  Next go up to big 3' roof.  Pull through (easier than it looks) clip bolt and climb last easy 10' to the top.  Be carefule around this section though.  Last spring I pulled off a 12" diamater "bomber" hold.  Almost knocked my belayer out.

This route is kinda weird..  You can either start on the really easy slab at the far right, or just do the bulge/roof start of spit.  I usually opt for the latter, more fun.  Once you get to big platform where you can stand, go on the right route.  From here it might be a rules game.  Really hard if you stay on the face the whole time, or you can mantle onto a rest stance on the arete.  This is just after the 2'nd bolt.  From here, do some cool lieback moves to the top.

Short.  On the far left of the wall.  2'nd to 3'rd bolt is crux.  Seems a little hard for 5.9.

Fun route.  First bolt is a little ways up there.  The crux is from the 1'st bolt to the 2'nd.  Can be a little wierd.  After that, climb horizontal cracks and pockets to the open hook chains at top.  One time a bat hissed at me when I put my hand in one of the cracks.  He was in there sleeping.

Lots of fun.  Start in the dihedral and work through a bulge/roof.  After 2'nd bolt, gain the big platform and take a break.  Clip the 3'rd bolt and get ready for continues crimping to the top.  Be careful going from the 4'th to the 5'th bolt.  I have broken holds off before here, can be scary when that happens.  Helmet for the belayer?

This route's anchors are new based on the 2012 comments. May have another name. Great protection all the way up. First bolt is nice and low (and easy to miss). The overhang bolt is the hardest to snag but still good protection and big feet all the way up. Before topping the roof, you can go far right for an easier but run out climb then traverse back in or face climb on the left. The roof would be difficult (5.11) to top straight on and makes this route harder than listed. The crux is between the last bolt and the anchor (as of 2020, the anchor has four hardware store quick links for lower). The anchor was 5.11 on its own unless you go left and take the steps on the side of the face and lean in. Cleaning the anchor required PAS or two short slings to hang from because there's basically no feet. Get ready for a lot of one arm pull ups.

 Stay on the route, even when top roping. The rest of this face is very loose (as evidenced by the massive rock slide below you and rock quarry on the ground) and wants to come apart and chuck big rocks at your belayer. Helmets extremely recommended for both people.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Thomas Creek