Climb 25' up Buttress Chimney, the wide crack between the Sunshine Face & Buttress Of Cracks, and then enter a flared chimney (5.9) below a striking crack. Wiggle up the chimney and then launch directly into the crux, which can be jammed straight-on or lie-backed depending upon your hand size or preference. Higher the crack makes a jog left via a steep hand crack (5.10+) and finishes with some easy moves to a ledge with a bolted anchors.

Rappel (if slings are in place) or make an easy downclimb off the backside which leads to a notch where you can pick up a trail leading back to the base.

Insomnia

Sword of Damocles

Hernia - Direct Finish

Ham Sandwich

Bocomaru

Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games)

The Pirate

Frustration

When You're Sap

Arcy Farcy

Aqualung Direct

Aqualung

Captain Hook

Walk the Plank

The Buccaneer

Overexposed Variation

Double Trouble

The Hernia

Pass Time

Bluebeard

Swashbuckler

Winter Solstice

Double Exposure

Arcy Farcy Mantle

Double Exposure Direct

Pieces of Eight

This is the third crack to the right of the Captain Hook chimney.  The "sword" (loose flake in the crack) that gave the route its name is gone.  It is a mediocre crack and chimney route.  To descend, walk right to a tree and rappel 160' to the ground.

Go straight up the face past a bolt where the regular route starts going right to the belay.

Clip the first bolt of

Winter Solstice

and then move left to reach the start of a left-facing flake system, shared with Club Sandwich and Bacon Bits, which curves up and left to join

The Hernia

at it's roof. Finish up via Hernia and use that route's anchors.

Essentially a slightly harder, alternate start to The Hernia that offers some good climbing along thin flakes as you stop to wiggle in gear. Worth doing if you've done The Hernia and seek more of a challenge.

Good rock, good climbing, thin technical moves.

From the extreme left end of the ledge make a move or two to stand up at the first bolt. The crux is encountered almost immediately, 11d edging/smearing on small steepish holds. Above, pass two more bolts, moving around the rib (11a) to the right after the last bolt. Somewhat runout climbing takes one to the top of the Buttress of Cracks.

Alternatively, it is possible to go left and up at the third bolt (10d), compliments of John Long. This is a more serious finish and may be loose enough to be unpleasant/scary.

This route is to the right of Hernia and the left of Winter Solstice.  About 20 feet to the first bolt, then small pieces in the expanding flake for pro before the second bolt.  Small edges--thus the name, Razor Games.

P1) A combination of tip jams and face moves down low gain the security of a knob, conveniently located next to the crack, above which the difficulty eases (5.11) and the crack opens up to accept better locks. Near the top of the first pitch traverse slightly right to a bolted belay; thin fingers or a lack of feeling in your fingers is a plus on this pitch.

P2) Back left into the crack and up the moderate (5.9) crack to the top. It's also possible to do this all in one pitch if so inclined. Belay atop Double Exposure and then descend the backside.

The first pitch is often popular to practice clean aid (C2) and is often attempted on toprope by climbing

The Buccaneer

to access the anchors.

There is a crux jam move near the start, a 5.9 move 40 feet up, and and easy chimney above.  The quality of the climbing is so-so.

From the Tree on Frustration Ledge stem with the tree until you have to commit to the wall, 15 feet up, then a easy mantle move to the first bolt. Crunchy flakes to a second bolt. Straight up from there or finish left.

This is the right-most climb on the left side of the Buttress Of Cracks and climbs smooth face past three widely spaced bolts to a bolted anchor at the top. Rap off or downclimb the gully to the right (5.5).

Begin just left of the regular Aqualung start, and climb a thin crack with poor pro (11c R), followed by easier climbing (5.8) up thin cracks to join Aqualung at a small pine tree.

A decent 2nd pitch to Frustration, Pass Time, etc. From the bolted anchor head right on the ledge to two flake blocks, climb them then to a short finger crack, stay right of a tree and head up and left to a bolted anchor. Two raps to the ground or rap Insomnia with 70m on the other side.

This prominent chimney is near the left end of the Buttress of Cracks. The first pitch (5.7) is a steep, well-protected chimney with a crux overhang at the top. The second pitch (5.6) follows another chimney directly above the belay ledge and is possible to combine with the first pitch with a 70+ meter rope. It finishes at a two bolt anchor near the top of the buttress, allowing you to scramble off or rappel.

Start on the left leaning flake (5.7) just left of the

Captain Hook

start. Continue in the shallow flakes (4" piece) to their end, and make a few moves (10b) to obtain the upper crack. Gear protects the crack until it thins down into seams. Two bolts protect climbing up the seams (12a). A small cam may be placed between the bolts. End at the Pirate belay.

This route is just to the left of the top of first pitch of Captain Hook and is a cleaner way finish. At the first belay look to the left 1 bolt protects a few face moves (crux) to the Pirate ledge. Rap 80 feet or go right to Swashbuckler 5.10d or straight up on Pieces of Eight 5.10d.

Interesting way to gain the Double Exposure Arete. Start on Insomnia but go right at the dangerous looking block. Traverse straight right to the third bolt of Double Exposure.

On TR I walked the dike to the arete but the true line is probably walking the sloping ramp a bit lower.

NO PRO!

Climb the difficult beginning of The Pirate than traverse left to the first bolt of Double Exposure Direct and continue climbing Double Exposure to the top of the cliff.  You can also TR the difficult part of the climb from the Pirate anchor and cut back to the Pirate once the climbing eases up and after passing the first two bolts of Double Exposure Direct.

Starts up a right-facing flake or directly up the face to reach a finger crack at the base of a large hollow-sounding flake. Continue past the flake and over a small overlap/roof to a flared section (small gear in the back) and finish up a flake system with incut face holds.

Not your typical 5.8 route as it offers a wide variety of climbing styles and is sure to hold your attention throughout.

This climb follows the first crack system to the right of the prominent Captain Hook chimney.  The climbing is hand jams and crux finger jams.  The easiest descent is to walk right to a tree and rappel 160' to the ground.

This is a short, exciting face climb.  It is on a small formation just below The Pirate.  Scramble down and traverse in from the left.  Unprotected crux moves lead up to the first bolt.  A good spot (tough to arrange on the exposed starting ledge) would help you if you fell here.  The moves above are fun and well-protected.  The climb finishes along the trail by the base of The Pirate.

From The Pirate ledge go right on some tricky face moves, leads to a arete and then to a horizontal crack. Climb crack to top of buttress.

Thin and continuous for much of the upper half, this challenging face route is best done when conditions are cold and crisp to ensure success. Although reasonably well protected for much of it's length the stretch going to the last bolt is a good 20 feet between bolts, so heads-up!

Start up a thin flake system, pass a black knob, and work up left and then back right to reach the 3rd bolt and the start of the difficulties. Move slightly right and up on tiny edges/friction to reach the 4th bolt and then continue up gradually more featured face to the top.

Originally rated 5.11a this climb has gotten more difficult over time as most of the tiny edges used on the first ascent have broken off and the rock has become polished from traffic.

This spetacular route has a great location, climbing directly on the arete that forms the left hand edge of the Buttress of Cracks.

Start around the corner from

The Pirate

. A shoulder stand leads to two steep bolts of aid and then runout moves over to and up the arete (sling might work on a knob). Follow the arete to the top (10b), belaying at the

Insomnia

anchor. Great climbing with superb positions.

2nd pitch of Arcy Farcy, directly above rap bolts for the wall. One marginal bolt, blowing the mantle would be bad. Easy to TR off big tree on the ledge above.

This is a direct free start to the Double Exposure Arete. There are only two bolts before joining Double Exposure at the point where it comes onto the arete at the knobs, making this somewhat serious.

Start just down and right of the regular Double Exposure start. Hard moves lead around the corner to a second bolt. Pass the second bolt and continue on runout climbing until the Regular route is joined. Follow the regular route to the top.

Starts at P1 bolts for Pirate or Walk the Plank. Very much like the Sundike on Sunshine Wall. Step left at third bolt to Finish on Pirate or Double Exposure (recommended).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side