Sent by Ben Hanna, November 2017. Graded 5.13d

Pat Goodman bolted it and after putting all the moves together on TR, never sent it before moving to WV.

Headspace

Fry Cleaned

Red Headed Stepchild

Suck My Dope

Unwritten Law

Treadin Water (AKA Steady Eddie)

Homegrown

Last Glitch Effort

A. C. Green

Dancing with the Pope

Vermin

Kramer v Kramer

Sidewinder

Cro-Magnon Acid Test

Dimpsty Dumpster

Dumpster Diving

Top Rope Between Is This How You Clip? and Sidewinder

Not Too Keen

Boyz “N” Barry D

Son of White Trash

Here Comes the Rain

Tiers for Allah

Is This How You Clip?  AKA: Douglas's Excellent Adventure

Ride the Lightning

White Trash

Black Jackets

Voodoo Child

Greasy Bean Undercling

Real Greasy Bean Undercling

Pigs in Zen

Treadin Jackets

Warpin Endorphin

Slimen H

Getting to the second bolt is tricky, reachy and crimpy followed by another hard move to gain jugs and easier climbing.

The name Black Jackets came from the black stripped bees coming out of the ground stinging me during the first accent.

Engaging, slabbier face climbing. Fun stuff. Climb  interesting but moderate rock up the first 3/4 of the route, then get ready for a stimulating, slopey, smeary crux.

Red Headed Stepchild is a new addition to the Dump (2013). The start is often wet but is worth navigating through to reach the overhanging juggy roof finish. Don't forget to knee bar.

Stimulating thin face climbing. Don't get suckered in to using the arete too much!

Excellent steep sport climb for the Boone region. Super solid rock and great holds. A good flow of climbing between protection. Hard lunge crux at the very last move off crimps to a large ledge. If you have the guns, clip the anchor and continue onto upper face to another anchor. This extension is called (Ride the Lightening 13b FA. Joey Henson), which rating includes the entire route with extra finish.

Make sure your undercling game is strong for this one.  Short mid-11 crux getting to the 2nd bolt leads to a slight runout but on very easy terrain. Grab some crimps and thumbercling your way to a multi-move, multiple undercling crux.  Continue up to find jugs in a crack and ready yourself for some dirty and hard to find holdsto gain the anchors.

This climb gets progressively harder the higher you go up on it.  Some say the route is 10a because it gets thin at the last bolt.

There are multiple interesting cruxes up this beautiful line. Very fun for anyone who enjoys hard face climbing.

There are several technical dump style cruxes; pinches, under-clings, thumber-clings, crimpers and off balance foot sequences. The crux is after bolt #4. Another crux section is before the anchors.

Easy climbing leads to a weird move near a vertical crack.  Thinner moves prevail until you get to the anchors.

Starts with an undercling and a big move to a sharp pinch.  Work your way up then go right at the top through a thin section to gain the anchors.

Steep, powerful underclings and crimps lead past several crux sections.

-Mike Grimm's "The High Country Cragger"

Straightforward up and leftwards, with useful small rails and a few thoughtful moves. Crux is just past 1/3 up, apparently the only move to the right on the whole climb.

Three crux climb.   Most difficult crux is at the top.

Another bolted boulder problem. Climb steep cranks past two bolts. At the third, either make a move to the arete at right or use little crimps to move left to the top.

The first crux is clipping and moving pass the third bolt. A second easier crux is pulling over the roof finish.

Lead Sidewinder or Is This How You Clip?, and clip the anchors to your right (the anchors for Sidewinder). Top rope straight up the face.

Great thin face route. Either bring a stick clip or, for full value, place a bomber nut or two below the crux face. 5.10 crack-ish climbing will bring you to the first bolt and the beginning of a very tenuous, powerful sequence. Crimp your way past two more bolts to the anchor.

Tough start leads to some really easy climbing.  The crux is higher up as you try to go over a bulge with 'nothing' feet.

A good first sport lead for the grade.  It can also be done traditionally, with so-so placements on the first half and a runout at the crux.

15 feet right of Fry Cleaned is this dump masterpiece. Often wet at the top. When dry, Rain provides a lesson in extreme underclings, crimps, and sidepulls. Two versions exist. The harder version follows the bolt line straight up, while the easier version trends right of the bolts. A small cam protects the runout between the 1st and 2nd bolt.

-Mike Grimm's "The High Country Cragger"

Crux is getting through the roof but hard moves after the roof getting to and clipping the next bolt. The top roof is a crux as well. Fun hard route. First bolted and sent early 1990s. This is when Gus Glitch and I were establishing a lot of new routes here. There has been some strange claims of first accents of this climb like Shoving Joe. I dont know where this comes from but this is my route. Bolted sent numrous times and end of story.

Straightforward slab climb.  Additional anchors to the right for toproping.

This is the extension to Unwritten Law. It adds another V4 boulder problem to the top. Go for it if you're feeling fresh after that dyno!

White Trash ascends the first face you encounter on the approach. It's basically a bolted boulder problem.

Some people start this route by climbing the chimney which makes the route easier, maybe 10-.

More of a marker than a route, this chimney splits the Fry-Cleaned wall.

At the risk of confusing matters, I am adding this route, even though this area already lists Greasy Bean Undercling as the chimney line. According to The High Country Cragger (which you really should buy!), Greasy Bean is the three bolt climb just to the left of the chimney.

Start on the sidepull and work straight up to the first bolt. You will start working right toward the chimney as you move to your next bolt. Things get a little weird past the third bolt.

Start out with some 5.11- climbing up to second bolt. If you fall near the second bolt, you will probably hit the ledge below or the ground. I would strongly recommend working out the moves on top-rope before committing on lead.

Take a quick rest, then prepare to fire up on some tiny crimps and sidepulls for the next 20 feet. Regain your composure and finish up the final easy runout to the anchors.

Climb the easiest sections of two 12's,

Treadin Water (AKA Steady Eddie)

and

Black Jackets

.  Start on Treadin Water and after the second bolt go right on jugs to the 3rd bolt of Black Jackets and finish on Black Jackets.

Beautiful climb--a little bit of everything all the way up! Work the dihedral through jugs, side pulls, and crimps, then stem and find some high feet as you move right over a small roof. After that, it's jugs to the rings.

If you are short follow a crimp directly under the bolt, if you are tall you can go big to a hidden pocket out right.  At the top it gets a little slabby.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Dump (Routes)