Start on a low ramp on the right side of the Meat Puppet crag to the right of the large tree and the overhanging section of cliff. Move up and then traverse left out to the arete. Head straight up following the path of least resistance or power through the juggy overhang near the top (5.6ish too).

Lots of exposure once you clear the trees, fun climbing similar to Wailing Wall.

Beelzebubba

Meat Puppet

Far Right Line

Undercover Lover

Head Like a Hole

Howlin' Yowlin'

Boulder up from starter crimps, moving left following a crack until you reach the "throne" just under the lip of the overhang about 15 feet up. Catch your breath, then finagle your way over. Then enjoy smooth sailing until near the top, where a bulge of rock presents a final challenge.

Easiest "10" at Moore's (some say a 9), and kind of a one-move wonder but protects flawlessly and is fun, so just get on it. Good route for 5.8 leaders looking to safely up the ante a bit.

The route starts at the far right end of the meat puppet crag, at the point where the roof is close enough to the ground that you can reach it. There is a potential boulder problem (which looks like it has been done before) on the underside of the start. You can either pull up and do some bouldery  moves to begin the climb, or you can keep the grade at 5.7 by scrambling up a boulder on the right and traversing left on a good ledge for hands. Continue up straight, searching for good pro, until you hit the lichen and then decide how you want to get to the ledge with a small pine tree and some loose logs where you can build an anchor.

The more challenging part of this climb is within the first 20 feet, then it gets pretty easy and licheny. Easy to walk off or continue to the summit area from the top.

Crux is the bouldery start followed by moderate climbing to the top.

Work up the right angling crack until you reach the "throne" in the center of the overhang. Take a breather and either: monkey your way out left following a steep and juggy crack until you can turn the lip and stand up, or stay a bit more centered and work up the vertical crack. Cruise straight up the featured face plugging gear at will, until a slightly tricky open book presents a final challenge.

Var: Either continue straight up through the book or veer out left for a final fun overhang with good gear.

Featured crack and right-facing corner near the left end of the Meat Puppet crag. A very neat set of features that climbs less obviously than you might think. Definitely a "would be classic if it were twice as long" situation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Meat Puppet Crag