First, climb the great 5.2 ridge route on the North ridge(s) of Three Graces, a superb climb which will undoubtedly be described by others.  Set up the toprope from this anchor, and head basically straight up the face, moving slightly right and then left to follow natural weaknesses.  Make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet, as this section of rock is very fragile.  Pull down and not out or, better yet, resist the temptation to climb this route after rapping off from Three Graces.

Note:  I have heard, but not confirmed, that the entire Three Graces formation is closed to climbing due to the damage done by climbing on the rock (I'll take my small share of credit for said damage, after being unable to resist the temptation on this route).  You might want to check with the Park staff, since not climbing there is probably preferable to a fine.

East Face/Three Graces

Weenis Route

The Window

Follow the line of three pins and then over the small roof/bulge to the top of the west fin of Three Graces. The 5.11a crux can be avoided by lassoing the 2nd pin with a sling and staying to the left (5.10). Tying the pin off short may be a good idea anyway: it sticks out a fair amount from the rock, and the ring is rusted solid at a cross-loaded angle. Pulling the bulge direct felt 5.11a-ish, moving left and mantling into the large hueco is 5.10.

Since this route is rarely climbed, expect dirty and crumbly holds. It is a bold and scary route.

Climb the rampy north ridge to its top, and then make a wild step across to the main summit.  This is a very cool, strange route on crumbly rock-definitely one of the better 5.2 routes you'll ever do.

A ranger watched me climb this and didn't yell, so I don't think it is closed.  It may very well be, however, since many of the rangers are pretty laid back about the rules and might not have tried to enforce the closure.

Description

Protection

Routes in Three Graces