A bouldery sequence of underclings and highsteps is the crux of this route and once the underclings at the 2nd bolt are reached it's about 5.9 to the anchors. Above the 2nd bolt the climb moves right then back left on positive flakes and edges and then continues higher to a chain anchor just right of the

Ground Zero

anchor.

Not as sustained as other routes here which could make it a good route for those breaking into the grade. There's an extension to this route called

Double Whammy

- 16 bolts to anchors.

Power Play

Vertigo

Technicolor Tango

House of Pain

Maximizer

Adrenaline

Tangerine Dream

Minimizer

Power Whammy

Full Conundrum

Torture Machine

Conundrum

Wonderstuff

Whammy

Double Whammy

Whammy Play

An excellent route with several hard sequences.  The first cruxy section starts off the first ledge and leads to a long move to a good hold.  Enjoy the no hands rest before starting the steep and sustained crux about half way up.  The top half of the climb is easier, but sustained.

The route starts on a technical slab that requires balance and friction to move up.  About 4 more bolts of easy climbing (5.9) lead to the first crux.  More easy climbing leads to a high undercling below the last bolt.  A short traverse right, a difficult high step, and a long reach to a bad sloper makes up the final cruxy moves.

This route has fun technical climbing to a hard sequence below the last bolt. On the way to top you will find many good rests to keep the pump at bay. Once you make the final clip and get established over the roof, crimp your way through the crux to the anchors.

This climb is the extension to

Minimizer

, which ends at the Whammy anchors. If you are doing the extension, you can skip the anchors entirely without being unsafe; simply pass them on climber's right and continue following the bolts. The climbing quickly becomes continuous 10+ up until a challenging first crux consisting of small crimps and edges up to a decent jug right below the roof. Take a rest and shake out before committing to the roof sequence, which is harder for climbers under 5'10" or so. The last 10 feet to the anchors is juggy but still exciting if pumped out!

Climb up easy terrain past 4 bolts to the base of a sharp arete. Clip when you can as you work past small crimps and cryptic moves. After you make it past the crux a decent rest can be found. One final bolt leads past fun reaches to the anchor.

A suberb mid-length route that features two distinct crux sections - the lower one with it's balancy, steep slab in the orange section and the upper one with strenuous liebacks and underclings as you fight the pump to the anchors on huge holds.

An area classic for the grade and one that should be on any climber's ticklist with it's varied climbing, stellar rock and thrilling exposure.

Start up the ramp start of Whammy, clipping that route's first bolt, and then fire up the face, heading slightly right as you pass a small bulge. Higher, the climb trends left and features some interesting climbing as you work left and then continue higher to anchors.

Enjoyable climbing throughout it's length on this route make this yet another great warm-up for the area. There is an extension to this route called

Maximizer

(5.11d), 15 bolts to anchors.

This is yet another link-up that seeks out the harder sections of two popular routes.

Start on

Power Play

, clipping three bolts on that route (a long draw is helpful on the 3rd bolt) and then veer right into the crux of

Whammy

and finish up that route to shared anchors on a ledge.

Extension of Conundrum (11a)   Climb Conundrum, clip the anchors and continue climbing past 2 more bolts to the anchors of Tangerine Dream.

A balancy and interesting move to get up to the third bolt leads to much easier climbing.  Climb sustained 5.11-/5.10+ to just below the roof.  The crux starts as you try to move to the underclings at the roof.  Pull the bulge with some long moves and punch it to the anchors on crimps.

A nice warm-up for the area offering gradually steeper climbing until the crux at the top which takes good holds out a swell of rock.

Make sure to unclip the last bolt when lowering to prevent your rope from getting pinched in the "vee" and trashing it unduly.

Climb a vertical to bulging face just left of the drill marks and then up into a clean, right-facing corner. Deft footwork and a bit of liebacking will see you through to the exit moves which lead to anchors on a sloping ledge.

A decent route that's yet another good warm-up for this area packed with quality routes.

Sidle leftwards up the ramp (most skip the 1st bolt), then head up making long reaches between nice edges. The crux is a short sequence with marginal feet, but it's easily passed with a bit of technique, after which an easy bit of climbing concludes this pitch (the last bolt is essentially superfluous).

A good warm-up, and one of several popular routes in this area that see lots of traffic. There's an extension to this route called

Double Whammy

, 16 bolts to anchors.

Begin on

Whammy

and continue past the anchors to another set much higher up. The crux consists of a few balancy moves to slightly awkward holds.

This link-up combines the easier portions of two existing routes for the easist route in the immediate area.

Start up

Whammy

, trending left for 2 bolts and then continue leftward (avoiding the crux of Whammy) to join

Power Play

at it's 3rd bolt (above it's crux). Finish up Power Play to shared anchors on the ledge above.

This route does a fair bit of wandering so it's recommended to use long draws on bolts #2, 4, 5 and to use a full length runner on bolt #3. Done this way there's little to no rope drag yet adequate protection for those climbing at their limit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (f) Torture Machine Area