A hella great two star route that no one will ever do, but everyone should really put it on their tick list anyway. Not too hard to find! If you are on the south eastern side of The Chockstone Corridor you will see a darkly colored rampy formation to your right. Mantle and scramble up this delightful five sixish slab placing sparse amounts of pro whenever possible. Hint! Ballnuts rule! Gain yourself a hand crack (in the middle of the formation) that is surprisingly super duper. Swim and flail your way through a crux that can only be described as unique. Gain another hella run out section of slab and find a safe way to reach the chains on the summit of this massive formation. Spend some time on the summit enjoying the view. You could have a chess tournament up there.

Purple Pawn

Goats on a Bridge

Missed the Boat

Ticket to Taster Town

Basically an extension to the 'Rediscovered Rook Crack'. Climb most of Rook Crack, once past the crux the holds become large patina jugs and chicken heads. At one particular large horn turn around and stem across the corridor to gain another hand crack that goes to the summit. A great sustained variation!

Start the climb under the gap formed by the lowest and second lowest chockstones.  Boulder up six feet, place some gear in a finger crack on the north wall, and then make an awkward move over to and up onto the first stone.  From here, the climbing is very straightforward to get on top of the second, third, and fourth chockstones. 

  Now move onto the near vertical north wall again following a series of chicken heads that is bisected by a crack system which affords good protection.  The crux of the climb is midway up this crack system where the hand crack ends for about a four foot distance.  Once you are past this point, face climb up and right to the narrowest point of the corridor.  Chimney up between the two walls until it seems easiest to pull over onto the south wall where another hand crack leads to the top.  Build your belay here and not at the rappel anchors which would generate huge rope drag.

This is a nice long obvious arete which is mostly 5.6 or easier.  The crux is where you least expect it. 

  Watch out for the huge loose flake on top of the route, past the steep climbing!

First climbing area you come to in the Chessmen.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chockstone Corridor - South Summit