P1: 5.9 fingers to ow crack. P2: 5.11- climb diagonally left past thin crack to bolted, exposed face over arch. P3: 5.10 hands thru a roof, clip directional bolt then traverse left oonto face (do not climb 10+ bulge/ow.)P4: Climb past many bolts (mostly 5.10) then 5.11+ crux to sustained difficult terraine to bombay squeeze. P5: 5.8ish bolted traverse. P6: Climb 5.10 corner and ow to 4th class and summit!

Arch Enemy

Technicolor Corner

Eraserhead Spire

Anvil Spire North Face

Queen's Bishop

All Systems Go

Epitaph

It's a Breeze

Dune

This is the NE face original aid line.  With the addition of two bolts and a lot of cleaning it has become an excellent free pitch dubbed "Blue Velvet" 

  Climb up 30' of choss to the top of the large detached block. 

  The next 30' are what you came for! Climb through cruxy finger locks and hand jams to a fun section of perfect fingers topped by a jug rest. Clip a bolt and muscle out the steep face climbing finish and classic 5.9 mantle onto the summit. This is a spire, no send without the mantle finish!

This is one of the best corners in Sedona.  You can rap after the corner pitch, or if you feel guilty for having too much fun and want to pay your pennance, continue on to the top.  It gets sun almost all day. 

  Pitch 1) 5.8 60' Ugly.  Climb a junky pitch to the ledge at the base of the corner and build a belay.  The belay takes #1 and #2 Camalots real well, but if you're trying to save this size a spot for a #3.5 can be found. 

  Pitch 2) 5.10 100' Beautiful.  Jam or layback the corner with occasional rests.  The corner takes a good variety of gear.  The crux comes when the crack gets wide and juts out to the right.  This move protects well with a new #5 Camalot or a #0.75 a bit earlier.  After the crux set gear for your follower and traverse easily to the bolted anchor. 

  Pitch 3) 5.9R 150' Scary.  Slab, slab and more slab.  There are a lot of bolts on this pitch, but it seems like every time you look down you're 20' above one of them.  Micro-route finding is tricky.  The 5.9 crux is just before the second bolt, where a fall would send you flying way past your belayer.  From the last bolt, traverse into a corner and pull onto an ugly ledge with a very difficult to set up belay.   

  Warning: all but 1 of the bolts on this pitch stick out from the wall a good inch and sport old homemade hangers. 

  Descent:    Rap 1: 150' Locate the hard-to-see bolts next to the big tree.  Rap to the Pitch 2 anchors.   Rap 2: 120' into a group of hungry agaves. 

A short, dirty(not loose), but interesting route with a straightforward and easy approach.   P1. Climb a corner/wide crack on the right side of the north face over sandy terrain to a ledge, traverse left to fixed anchor.    P.2 Continue left on the ledge under steeper terrain to a bulge(crux), climb the bulge and ledges to top. Sedona guidebook prompts to "hump the ridge to the top" yet I found no ridge there.

The route has all kinds of climbing from thin face to cracks. It is a fun route but would be better and get more traffic with good anchors.  It has been over thirty years since I did this so my memory is a little fuzzy on the specifics. For the first two pitches you are mostly climbing the face right of the corner.  The fourth pitch (maybe the third?) starts by climbing some huecos into a little bomb bay chimney that is formed by a very thin flake that you have to eventually lieback on while trying not to break it off like a saltine cracker.  I remember that pretty well because it was so "exciting."

All Systems Go 5.9 C3 starts up Epitaph 5.9 and then traverses left into the stellar, overhanging, right facing dihedral wall of the Epitaph corner. Mostly high quality rock and great exposure awaits the clean aid climber. 

  P1- Climb the first pitch of Epitaph, fun 5.9 and then tension traverse left to a thin crack which is the start of ASG. Continue aiding up this thin crack past one bolt and belay at a nice little stance with two bolts. C2+ slider nuts, etc. 

  P2- Continue up the obvious overhanging crack system through a 00 TCU section and then pop out the lip of the roof to a bolt anchor. C1+ exposed. 

  P3- The view from here is fantastic. Follow the same crack system as it angles up and right and finally terminates at the top of an expanding flake. From here use 3/8" x 2" screws or dowels to aid up the dowel holes in the otherwise blank face. As the angle of the rock eases, jump out of your aiders and freeclimb(5.7) up and left past one bolt and belay at a bolted anchor on a horizontal dike. 5.7 C2 (could go free at 5.11R??). 

  P4- Freeclimb upwards and ascend the right facing corner above, pass a nice ledge and go to the top. 5.8

This is a great route up a huge corner then out an equally huge roof.  If MP.com had an option to rate this 5.9+++ I would have rated it so.  It gets shade in the am & a mix of sun & shade in the pm. 

  Most people only do the first 3 pitches then rap, which is what we did.  As the guidebook says: "If you are going to the top make sure your affairs are in order."  If anyone here has climbed all the way to the top please contribute the info.   

  P1: Start up easier ground through some loose rock to good rock in a nice corner.  Ascend corner to a gear belay on a ledge. (5.9+) 

  P2: Continue up corner to a bolted belay just a bit before the roof. (5.9)  It MIGHT be possible to link the first 2 pitches with a 70m rope, lots of slings, and a strong leader. 

  P3: Continue up a short bit to the huge roof.  Traverse right for forever to an awkward but good rest in a big pod, then continue right some more to the lip.  Pull around the lip (#4 Camalot) then up cracks for another 20-30' to a bolted anchor. (5.9+)

A good climb up the West nose of the Flying Buttress. Worth doing if in the neighborhood doing Technicolor Corner or Epitaph.    First pitch climbs a right facing dihedral with a very nice finger crack to a awkward roof, belay on limestone band from gear or rappel equipment 5.11-, 100 feet.     Second pitch climbs up crack to a large chimmney, Belay from bolts on left 5.10 PG 13, 80 feet.    One could continue to the top of the Flying Buttress via low angled terrain, but the climbing quality will deterioriate.

This route in on the SW face of Eraserhead Spire. 

  Traverse out from the notch on easy terrain past two bolts to the base of a shallow dihedral.  Climb up the dihedral on excellent rock to a crux move left out onto the face.  Continue up the face another 25' to the summit anchors.

This is the long and beautiful butress east of Moose's Butte.  It holds the classic routes Eptaph and Technicolor Corner, among others.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Flying Buttress