This prominent overhanging thin hands / fist crack is on the east face of Split Dome. The superb rock quality makes this short but powerful climb well worthwhile.

Jam the crack and use holds on either side for hands and feet. The initial crack ends in a small "cave." At this point a thin seam goes directly over a roof (thin cams and stoppers for protection)to the top or a left-slanting fist crack can be climbed to the top. Placing protection is the crux.

Cleared For Takeoff

Turtle Vein

Too Obvious

Nipple, The

Worthy of It

Joshua Tree Coffee

Joshua Tree Brew

Bike Across America

Porky's Excellent Adventure

Desert Sky (aka Environment-Oil President)

a face climb with long runouts on easy climbing

This easy to spot line lies just east of the Split Rock parking area.

Climb up huecoed face for 10' (same as Environment-Oil President) to gain right-angling crack.  Follow the awkward, slightly grainy hand crack to the top of the formation.

Belay on gear.

Circuitous descent off the backside of formation.

awkward and runout moves up a shallow, arching crack

This is the crack system on the corner of the formation, just left of Desert Sky. Start by traversing up and around a big grainy flake, above where the rock quality improves considerably. Follow the crack up to the large roof with very fun moves, and finish with a few more nice crack moves to the top.

See the photo by Blitzo for a picture of a climber on this route.

This  climb is located of the east side of Split Rock South formation...the back side facing away from the parking lot.  Find the big boulder/ formation called the Popcicle.  It is behind and up of the Popsicle to the west.  It is about 50 feet to the right of cleared for take off.  Scramble up through Boulders and bushes to get to this climb.  There is sort of a path/ trail of sorts.  There are two routes on this shabby formation.  Joshua Tree Coffee is the left route.  Both routes share the same anchor.

Climb up past four bolts to a bolted anchor shared by Joshua tree coffee.

This climb goes left out a short ramp/seam, then straight up past 3 closely spaced bolts to the top.

Seemed like an appropriate route to climb given the current political climate.

This line can easily be seen to the east from the end of the Split Rock parking loop.  Huecoed face climbing leads to a right-angling crack and good pro.  Instead of following the crack, continue straight up past 3 bolts with old hangers, make a delicate move left along a small dike, and continue up along the arete on easier terrain. Bring a few pieces to build an anchor.

As typical for Josh, the descent may be the crux.

A good choice for a cold day.

Description

Protection

Routes in Split Dome (South Rock)