Start with some committing slab moves to get to a flake then follow the cracks/flakes to the notch in the roof. Go up the notch and the anchors are on the right.  This is a good warm up for f/8.

Exodus

The Angry Inch

Small Potatoes

Draw the Line

Two-Bit Grit

The right most of the 2 bolted lines on the left face.  Short, frictiony, and 1 tough move.  Downclimb through the gully on the right.

This is a bouldery little route. Precision feet and sequence are required to make it to the top. Cool underclings and high step thrown in for good measure are memorable. You can escape out right near the top, or hang in there and go straight up (contrived but fun).

The left line on the left face.  Again short, frictiony with 1 tough move.  Downclimb at the gully on the right.

Climb cracks and weaknesses over a small roof to the first bolt.  Use a small pocket to get up to the second bolt over the roof.  The rock is flaky and makes pulling the roof a true challenge.  Climb under the tree and enjoy better climbing above on a nice crystal-filled face.  This route would be a good candidate for anchor chains.  With some cleaning up, this route will earn more stars.  The view from the top is terrific.  Bring your camera and set your aperture accordingly!

E4 6c+

Straight out of Scotland,

Two-Bit Grit

transcends time, landing you in Yorkshire's

Peak District

. While you're not climbing gritstone or shale, placements between bolts are shaky, sparse, and don't exactly inspire

going for it

.

To begin, find some bloke and get a good spot, actually- make sure you get a great spot then proceed to boulder the start (the

Wasatch Guide

notes the crack on the right as being off, not that it helps).  Crimp on a slab-- over nothing-- passing the first bolt to a "rest" at an undercling; fiddle with some small pieces of gear then carry on remembering to breathe. From here move up and left over sketchy territory making sure not to skip any opportunities to place anything! Heading up and slightly left pull off some delicate moves to gain a solid stance. From this point, eye up the head wall, commit to a few awkward moves, and grab a

thank-you

hold. Clip the last bolt and fire the bouldery top out. A mini-epic~!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Diminutive Wall