Durins Bane accesses the large roofs on the south facing aspect of the wall east of the Oracle.  The climb starts with a bolt ladder. This route will likely go all free after a couple more ascents. While this route doesnt climb a tower, it does put you in a totally awesome place way back in the towers. The exposure on P4 is spectacular and is likely the most overhanging pitch in the Fishers or Mystery Towers, and perhaps the most overhanging pitch on Cutler. Pitches below 4 stay dry in the rain and snow. Subsequent parties will likely be able to do this in a day.

P1- Start at obvious bolt ladder interspersed with easy hooking and occasional #1 beak placements. 23 bolts to the anchor. This pitch will likely go free at hard 5.11 (~140).

P2-Head up the crack above the anchor using occasional beaks and cams. Continue up with additional passing two bolts into another crack on the right. (A2, ~110).

P3  Head up the phenomenal splitter arching up and left. Two #1 beaks were the only iron placed on this pitch. A large smattering of cams and stoppers are needed. Do not hammer this crack, as it will not last. The #1 beaks were used to bypass a loose part of the flake. This pitch would probably go free around 5.11. (A1 (Mostly C1/0) ~110)

P4  Head up in into the roofs.  Wild pitch. Go up the loose flake (DO NOT NAIL) directly above the belay, into the corner leading to the obvious roof splitter. Two bolts protect the arête, and there is one after the roof to move into the second roof. This pitch is worth the climb. (A2, 90)

P5  Head right to a splitter crack that leads up and right to a belay about 10 feet below the summit. This pitch went mostly clean, just 2-#3 beak placements and would likely go free at ~ 5.10 (A1, 100)

Descent: Rap the route. Fixed lines recommended on P3 and P4

Durin's Bane

Hell Hound

Hydraform Ridge

P1-Traverse pitch. Requires some simul-aiding unless you have a 70 m rope. End at nice ledge.

P2-Easy aid/free up bulges to belay. This may be free climbable (A1/2)

P3-Easy aid/free up bulges to belay (A1/2)

P4-Nailing crux. Long stretch of gear in bad rock. Big (but clean) falls possible. 3 bolts allow transition from #1 beak seam to another crack system. End at double bolt belay.

P5 - More aid up the headwall and into the caprock. More beaking with occasional bolts.

P6/7 - Free/clean aid up Moenkopi chimney to the summit. Enjoy exciting offwidth finale.

Descent: Rap route. All anchors have at least 2 bolts.

Hydraform Ridge (VI 5.8 A3*) 1200 ft

depends on ability to throw ice axe (A3-A4)

P1- Mud horn lasso leads to thin finger size crack through bulges. One bolt, followed by thin beaking leads to double bolt anchor on ridgeline(A2). Start almost exactly on the southernmost portion of the ridge.

P2-Follow intermixed bolts and beaks to large offwidth. End at double bolt belay at looking glass on the ridgeline. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. (5.8, A2) P2-4 follow original ascent line on Hydra

P3-Go up and right from belay to gain walkway along ridgeline. Follow rivets, beaks, and free climbing to double bolt belay on ridgeline. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra.  (5.7, A1)

P4-Head straight up from belay on beaks. Perform ice axe toss/lasso. Jug up off ice axe places intermittent beaks for back-up. Arrive at top of hydra fin. Slung horn and bolt for belay. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. This pitch separates the men from the boys. (A3-A4 depending on ice axe skills)

P5-Charon's Ride. Mixed free and aid across wild, convoluted ridgeline of hydra. Jumps between hoodos necessary. End pitch by rapping down to lowest notch on ridgeline, where there is a double bolt belay. 2.5 ropes can be fixed from here to the ground. (5.8, A1)

P6-Continue along ridgeline, using intermittent beaks and bolts. End at prominent hump on ridgeline and double bolt belay. (A2)

P7-Traverse along right side of ridgeline using bolts, beaks and free climbing to double bolt belay. ~50ft. (5.7, A1)

P8-Continue up ridgeline using beaks, bolts and free climbing to another double bolt belay. (5.7, A1)

P9-Traverse straight right across ridge using rivets and bolts. Continue upwards in trough with solid beaking. Ultimately trend right using a mix of cams, and free and aid to arrive at a Hades Chair, a large 6x12 ledge on the ridgeline. Ropes can be fixed here to the ground using stations. (5.7, A2)

P10-Crossing the Acheron. Continue up ridgeline using mostly bolts and occasional beaks. Enter the gaping maw at the caprock, and free climb out the caprock roof using large cams. Belay on double bolt anchor on nice ledge. (5.8, A1)

P11- Mix free/aid up caprock to double bolt belay on top of pillar, at large ledge. (5.8, A1)

P12-Elysium. Follow chimney to the right of the large ledge up to the caprock and double bolt belay. Scramble 15ft of third class to the broad summit. You have just finished the longest route on Cutler (5.8, C1)

Descent: Lines can be fixed from the top of P4, P5, P10. Rap from summit down P10 using stations in the mud flute on the east side of the formation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Netherworld