Divine Guidance follows the obvious steep corner system right of Myopia and eventually connects to the great upper pitches of Astro Elephant via a couple unlikely and memorable face pitches. This is a great route that demands a solid lead head to navigate some spicy terrain.

Begin by scrambling up to a tiered ledge system with a couple large trees on the SE corner of the Perch.

P1 (5.7): Shared with Myopia, climb a long series of cracks, corners and blocks passing the belay for the first real pitch of Myopia and continuing a few feet up and right to a good ledge at the base of a long left-facing corner system that forks into two corners up higher (this Y-shaped corner system is an obvious landmark from below).

P2 (5.10): Climb the long corner system being cautious of some loose blocks and hollow stuff. About halfway up this corner you may see some obvious face holds leading to an old bail anchor out left - do not traverse here but continue up the corner to a second line of face holds that also lead out left. This is about 3/4 of the way up the corner. Traverse across the face and then up a thin flake to a stance belay on top of the flake. This is the only uncomfortable belay on the route.

P3 (5.11a PG13): The crux of the route is immediately off the belay. Step left and, using an undercling, make a big reach to the top of the thin flake. Traverse up and right across the top of this flake some distance before reliable pro can be had. At a stance, you can either traverse further right into a short corner system capped by a small roof (a bit of lichen and flakey rock, but good pro), or you can continue straight up the thin flake system (slightly harder?). Either way, the lines merge after about two body lengths at the left edge of the small roof and a welcomed rest at a huge pocket. Above this you'll be glad you brought a #4 Camalot to protect 30' of steep fist crack/liebacking. When the crack abruptly narrows, bust wildly out right on face holds and climb a series of sparsely-protected pillars to the "Towers Belay" that Ian mentions in the comments. This is a wild spot!

P4 (5.10+ R): Climb up into a bomb bay roof feature that is plugged by a wedged block, but instead of struggling over this, move around the arete to the right onto an exposed and highly featured face. Wander up this face plugging cams into small pockets for pro, clipping a vintage quarter-incher, and resisting the temptation to move right into a huge corner feature where more bail gear may be enticing you with the promise of an easy escape. Instead work up the face via a thin section to a huge flake above a small foot-ledge. This flake and ledge are located just 10' or so left of the left-most reaching section of the aforementioned huge corner feature. Sling this flake for a belay.

P5 (5.11a R): This is the money pitch. Move out left off the belay to gain an obvious thin seam. Climb this with decent but spaced pro until they (both the seam and the pro) thin to almost nothing. Arrange a nest of RP's and launch with commitment up and rightwards across a face to a small foot ledge beneath a second seam.  Climb this second seam (now more or less back in line with the belay) up to a few tough moves to gain a huge pocket on the left. Protect this as well as possible and then step up with difficulty, clip another vintage bolt, and climb 15' of breath-taking face climbing to access a shallow, left-facing corner and more protection. I followed this to a prominent dike system and traversed right (being careful of a large loose block) before stepping up to a perfect belay ledge with a small tree, but it would also be possible to continue straight up the corner to this same ledge. Either way you have now joined Astro Elephant.

P6-9 (5.9): Climb the last four pitches of A-E to the very summit of the Perch. With a 70m rope it is possible to link these pitches into two leads.

Divine Guidance

Direct Beckey

Sunrise Book

The Fine Line

Unknown

Mountaineer's Route

Mojo

Chasing the Dragon

The Thorn Bush

Trunkline

Splittgerber-March Direct

Boomers Story

Wendy

E.P. Arete

Original Beckey

Myopia

Astro Elephant

Sideline

Beautiful direct corner system up a steep clean wall.  A one move technical crux, followed by a sustained stemming pitch and several other moderate 5.10 pitches.

Very attractive direct line up the center of the wall, with several nice 5.10 pitches and a single hard move.

Corner system above the descent gully.

Can be done as 5.10a A1 by aiding through the crux.

photo trip report by Brad Brandewie

A stunning line with superb position above a steep wall with blank rock to either side.

The first pitch of this route has a series of crux sections each getting a little more difficult as you progress on the pitch. After that, many fun 5.9 and easy 5.10 pitches up the single crack follow.  Eventually it traverses onto the moderate upper pitches of the Beckey Route.

p1 was originally done by Fred Beckey, et al, then bolted and freed in the 1990s by Jeff Rhodes.

Unsure of name or true grade of this one. Saw the man Reid Dowdle and some other locals doing this one. Likely the start to a longer aid route, but makes a great single pitch climb. Overheard him say it was 10a sandbag. I personally felt it was 10a, much easier than other .10 pitches on the perch. Fun flake with great jamming and a bit of liebacking during the wide parts. Crux at top as you get a decent fingerlock to a big jug on top.

7 to 8 pitches fun climbing. Don't worry too much if you don't enjoy the first pitch - it gets great as you get higher. Shady until late in the day.

P1. 5.8. 180ft. Start on the easy gully that trends left from near the end of the trail that hugs the base of Elephant's perch.  It turns to a chimney, which you follow for about 20'.  Keep an eye out for a heavily chalked mantle move out left (crux of pitch).  Leave the chimney, surmount the mantle (easier if you work around to its left) and follow a crack to a 3-4' pine tree with slings.

P2. 5.8. 180ft. Cruise up easy broken terrain to a set of bolts low on a large ledge. Head up the crack above and to the left of the ledge, but traverse left after 15' instead of continuing up the wider crack.  Find a set of bolts about 30' below the large tiered roofs above.

Variation: Do pitches 1 & 2 in 3 pitches by belaying after the 5.5 ramp (bolts at large ledge) and again at the bolts on the ledge above the pine tree.

P3. 5.8 160ft. FUN TIMES!  Cruise up to right side of the tiered roofs (don't face climb to left edge), place some pro, traverse left along the roof, backcleaning as you go.  It's quite easy and there's lots of pro, so the backcleaning is easy.  There are solid placements right on the left edge of the roof.  Pull around and enjoy the spectacular exposure.  Continue up a crack that gets easier and easier, eventually 4th or even 3rd class.  Belay right at the very base tip of the huge blank diamond that looms above.

P4. 5.9. 170ft.  Climb up the face diagonaling left (easier than it looks) to the arete and enjoy moderate climbing as you merge into a dihedral on the right with a ~2' roof feature.  Surmount the roof (cruxy, with good gear) and create an anchor above in any of the decent ledges.

P5. 5.7. 100ft. Climb up good cracks near the edge of the huge diamond.  You will eventually find a clean 20' finger crack that's well-worn.  Belay near the base of this feature.

P6. 5.9 150ft. Climb up the finger crack. Options above left and right if you don't want to finger jam.  Great pro.  Above, follow wide cracks for ~50' which continually get easier.  Gear belay when convenient.

P7. 5.easy. 100ft. Follow broken rock until you feel safe enough to unrope.

You are still a long way from the summit.  You can attain it via 3-4 pitches of 5.easy roped climbing continuing in this direction, or you can follow the descent instructions and then walk down the south side.

an incredible route, with lots of sustained climbing.  first pitch is spicy first thing in the morning, but all there.  traverse right into the corner at the top of pitch 2. 3 incredible pitches of 11 in a row brings you to the crux.  tech 9 fingers and slab traverse*** both climbers should be fairly solid at the grade to attempt the crux, due to the traversing nature and sporty gear.  otherwise there's a 5.10 option to the left that avoids piches 6 and 7, which is still an incredible route and lowers the grade to 11+/12-..  the 8th pitch is truly awesome , steep left leaning hands under a roof.  this route's badass!  if you're looking to work the crux you can run up the mtnrs route for 3 pitches and then take the right traversing hand crack at the base of the large diamond, kinda loose but moderate..  then rappel into crux, takes some kajankery to set a rope on, but doable..

This route has some amazing pitches. Unfortunately, the first (crux) pitch is low angle and collects dirt and munge. But don't let this put you off. The second pitch, the Wafer of Woe, is one of the best 5.10 pitches at the Perch. Think Wheat Thin to the Stovelegs and you get the idea. Brilliant and three stars on its own! A suggested approach would be to climb easy ground left of the first pitch of Mountaineer's, trending left to a small pine tree. From here you can either clean and lead/TR the first pitch, or just climb pitch 2 and 3 as an alternate start to the Mountaineer's.

The Thorn Bush is an old aid line which was neglected for far too long. The name is derived from the obvious thorn bush which sits in the middle of Pitch 5 and, in the subtle words of Cody, you can "high step the shit out of that bush!" The route sits on a part of the wall that is often overlooked as many of the other classics on the wall sit either left of right, but if you are looking for an adventure, escape from the crowds or just simply some amazing rock not often touched this is where you want to be.

P1 (5.8): The first pitch is the same as for Boomer's Story, a simple 5.8 up a corner, a short chimney and some airy moves to a good ledge.

P2 (5.12d): Off the left side of the ledge begins one of the best pitches on the Perch, and one of the best alpine pitches I have ever climbed. Exciting and fun climbing leads to a WILD chimney section and up to a decent rest. Get everything you can back and embark on the crux of the pitch and perhaps the route. Pull through a bulge and into an improbable corner. If you're David Copperfield this is no problem. This pitch ends at the original hanging belay set by the first ascentionists.

P3 (5.10+): Pitch 3 pulls back into the corner and makes its way under an airy roof traverse; pull onto a ledge and follow easy terrain to a giant ledge.

P4 (5.11): Pitch 4 is a gem. This is a perfect right-leaning 5.11 fingers and thin hands crack that finishes with a few surprisingly fun OW moves to the anchor.

P5 (5.12+): The Thorn Bush pitch! Start in a dirty crack out right of the belay. Move back left and towards the bush. From here you can either 'highstep the shit out of it' or bear down on a few small crimps, hike a foot and blast to a good flat ledge. Mantle up and get ready for the next crux. The crack here tends to seam out but opens up just when you need it to, or maybe 6" further than you would like.  Figure your way up into the corner and follow it to a roof. Take the roof out right and climb up to a belay.

P6 (5.12-): Pitch 6 starts out with a few Funk Master Flex stemming moves in a blank corner. Move right at a roof and then follow the killer 5.10 fingers and hands to the bivy ledge. The Bivy ledge is one of the coolest hangs on the Perch and a great place to relax and fuel up before the last of the hard climbing.

P7 (5.11): Off the ledge start up a locker steep finger crack, be warned this is a very sharp crack but sooooo good. When the crack thins step right onto the face and up into a thin hand/ring lock crack. Follow that for about 20 feet then step back left when possible. Follow this through a few roofs and past a couple ledges. A short hard flaring OW section leads you to a good stance and the end of the hard climbing.

From this point follow the obvious cracks (5.10) up and right towards the Beckey Tree. From the tree take which ever line you wish to the top.  All the climbing at this point is 5.10 or under.

Pitch break down: 5.8, 5.12d, 5.10+, 5.11, 5.12+, 5.12-, 5.11, 5.10, 5.10- (to the Beckey Tree). 3 more pitches of <5.10 to the summit.

Many 5.8 - 5.9 chimneys and wide cracks with a thin crux.

One of the more moderate outings at the Perch, with 3 shorts sections of easy 5.10.  The "5.9+" traverse starting p5 is not well protected for the follower unless some gear is left in the corner for a backrope belay.

For the best beta, see

Brad Brandewie's photo trip report

.

Boomers Story is a good free route, and if you just do the first five pitches, I think most would bump it up a notch to the "great" category.  We followed the cleanest and most straightforward variations we saw, and I think if you spent some time cleaning some dirt out of the cracks left of pitches 1 and 3, you could straighten the curves and make this rig even better.  The highlight of the route is pitch 2, a super-clean, super-tech, and super-aesthetic corner system you can see from the ground.  It's the kind that makes the angels sing in harmony when you look at it.  Pitches 3 through 5 are also pretty good, but then the route quality and difficulty goes down a notch or two from there to the top.  You can definitely rappel the route from the top of pitch 4 with a single 70 m rope via slung trees, horns, and fixed passive protection (might need new webbing).  You might be able to make it down pitch 5, also, but I'm not sure.  You certainly could if you fixed a couple of stoppers part way down the pitch.

Here's the pitch by pitch breakdown:

Approach:  Scramble up ~50 ft to a large ledge with some pine trees on it. The P2 R-facing corner is a good landmark to shoot for.  Also, to the left, look for a thin futuristic 1-pitch splitter off this ledge.

P1:  Step right into a 5.8 wide crack in a left-facing corner.  After ~25 ft, mantle out and step right on ledgy ground. Climb up and left via hand cracks behind flakes.  Belay on a large ledge with a slung constriction.  5.8, ~60 ft.

P2:  The biz.  Step left, boulder up past two pretty crappy pins, get a rest, and then fire the thin corner above.  Expect tech-9 stemming and sinker nut placements.  The stems themselves are stable and let you place gear, but moving up, well that's a different story.  After about 80 feet, when the difficulty backs off, switch to a crack system on the right.  Eventually, step left around a bulge to a belay in an alcove. 5.12+/13-, 110 ft.

P3.  Climb up and right out of the alcove on gritty rock (5.9+ slightly run) toward a crack.  Pull a committing bulge that suddenly speeds up the pump clock.  Continue up the shallow right facing corner to another ledge belay.  5.11, 100 ft.

P4.  Get your legs ready for one more short section of thin stemming in the R-facing corner (5.12-) to gain a widening crack.  About 30-40 feet up, cut left around a bulge on big face holds (really fun) to a L-facing corner.  Follow the corner up to a large ledge.  5.12-, 90 ft.

P5:  Continue up the left-facing corner.  It starts thin, but you can use a wide crack on the right wall.  Pull the roof at the top of the corner, squirm up through a short wide section, and belay at a tree visible from the bottom of the pitch.  This pitch looks like it's covered with slippery lichen, but it doesn't really feel that slippery.  5.11-, 115-130 ft.

P.5-6:  The route becomes much less engaging at this point.  Still fun, but much slabbier and with grittier rock.  There are probably numerous ways to continue up from here.  We combined pitches 5 & 6 with a little bit of simulclimbing.  Climb up and right via 5.7 grooves with hand cracks in the back.  Above, cut slightly left to belay at a decent-sized tree on the right side of a large ledge.  5.9+/10-.  230 ft.

P. 7-10:  We combined these into two pitches with some simulclimbing.  From the tree belay, traverse down and left ~100 ft on an easy ledge to a large R-facing corner system.  Climb the corner and continue to angle up and right via cracks and ledges to the top.  5.8, 500 ft.

Descent:  From the top, hike down the standard descent gully with one single rope rappel near the bottom.

A long independent route up the typical small corners with 2 hard pitches.  The first pitch is often wet and the second pitch has a fragile flake.

I have not done this route but it looks incredible from the ground. If anyone has pictures or a conditions report please add.

The original line of the Beckey route, starting up what is now p1 of Fine Line, and then going up a hard stemming pitch to join what is now the Direct Beckey.  Most people do the Direct Beckey or Fine Line instead.

FFA(pitch one): Greg Lowe, Jeff Lowe, 1972

FFA(entire route): Reid Dowdle, Paul Potters, 1985 or 1986

A relatively moderate but sustained outing, with 2 5.10 pitches followed by several 5.9 pitches.  An easier version can be done by starting on Sideline, which avoids the 5.10 pitches.

Check out

Brad Brandewie's photo trip report

.

An easier start to Astro Elephant, which avoids the (2) 5.10 pitches.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Elephant's Perch