Start on steep, angular jugs, and pull, highball boulder style (5.9), to a stance beside a tabletop-ledge-like affair (gear 2in). Gain the ledge, on less than positive holds, dink in pro in the somewhat reluctant horizontal, and prepare for the business. Continue up the corner to the roof. Maneuver left, under the roof, and then up, on committing moves (5.10b), gaining height to maneuver back right, obtaining the ledge-stance above the roof. Climb easier terrain up, then left and up, following a seam-crack to the summit.

Scary Okie

Found Arrow

Okie Dokie

Littlest Mermaid

Old Dog's New Trick

Bombs Away

Wille Coyote

Headbanger

It’s a Family Affair

New tricks

Crack climb to the right of old dogs new trick. From the polished slab up on blocks for 15 feet feet to a good stance and gear. Work up and left (marginal gear placements) leading to better rock and good gear opportunities higher up. Continue up the crack and to the top on easier climbing joining old dog new tricks or climb out right (variation) on face holds to a short headwall.

Fun climb on the mini spire. Rock quality is similar to Bomb's Away and could use more cleaning up/traffic. Go straight up the steepest side of the spire (down creek side) using horizontal and vertical cracks for pro.

This variation finish continues left and up onto the short, steep headwall. From the exit moves of scary okie move left to the obvious holdless stretch of rock leading to the top.

Nice moderate route isolated on a shortish wall upstream from Bombs Away.

The crumbling dihedral just right of Bombs Away

Climbs an inset V notch corner on the left side of the wall.

Start on some sketch crunchy holds and climb up to find better holds and a hidden fixed pin.  Final moves make the lower section worth it.

Nail hard granite on sustained 5.11c climbing with little chance for recovery. Tony says that no move is harder than 5.11 but since it’s on ya from the start it’s graded harder. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Forty Foot Hole Routes