Find the ramp going to the Keyhole on the west side. Climb halfway up and look for pins. The right line is Ziggy's. The left route is BFD. Belay from here, no anchor, so hopefully the leader doesn't fall going to the first pin. Climb the face using edges and pockets past 3 more pins to the top.

Rappel down the east side.

This is a fun route that no one hardly ever climbs anymore.

Ziggy Stardust

Keyhole Route

Borderline Direct

Punk Face

This is a fun climb with good rock, but beware, it's harder than it looks from the ground.  The climbing is technical and sustained for the first 30 feet, and gets steeper until you clear the overhang (which feels like a large roof at the lip).  The first piton is good, but don't blow it getting there.  I placed a #4 Camalot to protect the first move, but this soon becomes worthless, and you might want it higher up.  Above the first piton, you can get a great #8 Stopper at the lip of the roof (and/or some cams), but this is an awkward and pumpy spot to place gear.  You'll want it though, because the next fixed protection is a scary looking old bolt.  Pull one or two more steep moves up the groove before the angle kicks back and the climbing becomes easy to the top.  I was a little worried about a ground fall on this climb, but with a cool head and good placements, this really shouldn't happen.

The Keyhole Route climbs up the West Face of Keyhole Rock, up to and under the arch that gives the formation its name.  The guidebook calls this 3rd or 4th class.  I thought it seemed a bit harder, like maybe even 5.6 or so.  It's a cool climb to do, but there's no protection. So, either free-solo it as I did, or if you're bringing a partner, expect to free-solo on lead and just drag the rope up with you.  Approach from the north end of Keyhole Rock and traverse a ledge system along the West Face.  Start down and to the left of the arch.

Descend by downclimbing a gully to the north, which passes below

Ziggy Stardust

.  You might also be able to descend by going up and over to the east side, but I'm not sure because when I climbed this, it was Fall and there was a little snow up there.

Climb potholes up to a small bulge with a fixed ring angle piton and a large, rusted screw-link. Continue through the crux, using the crack-like feature (no jams here), and gain the large pothole and flake above. Easier climbing takes you to the ridge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North End Pinnacle