Stick-clip a bolt, then make a difficult move to get on the face just left of the ramp. Move up onto the ramp, heading into a prominent, right-facing corner (this is the route Fritzie's Honor ). Climb up the corner a short way, reach around left to clip another bolt, then reach yet farther left and grab the edge of a flake. Make an off-balance step-around move onto the face, then climb up, diagonalling first left, then back right. NOTE that the gigantic megadeath flake to the left is probably not a wise option here. Continue up and slightly right to a good stance, then work up to a right-facing corner. Go up it and right along the final bit of slab to the anchors.

Hit Girl

Riptide

Peach Meat

Fritzie's Honor

Layback or jam the crack to a large stance on the left. Step right onto the face and make a committing move up to another horizontal. Gear up - this is difficult, because the crack is well overhead and footholds are poor (as in, nonexistent). The original ascentionist obstinately maintains that climbers must dyno to the next horizontal - however, a tricky step right and up is substantially easier. A few more moves reach a stance below a steep headwall with a noticeable paucity of holds or pro...excepting the bolt, which protects an even-less hold-cluttered move to reach the two-bolt anchor.

Yet another excellent route on this wall. Great rock and excellent moves. After an easier trad start, the route is sport. 

  Go up the right-facing flake to its top, then rail left a few feet. Go up and right on the steep face to a rounded stance below a headwall. Up this to another stance (crux), then more easily to a fixed anchor.

Great moves on high-quality rock. 

  Move up the fingercrack, then straight up easy holds to a stance. Make a hard move straight up, then move slightly right and up shallow open books to a headwall. Some devious crimps make the headwall possible. Finish through some easier roofs with wild stemming.

Steve Adler and Mike Caruso top-roped this route in 2000, after finding out the crag's neighboring cliff (Sugarloaf) was off-limits. Sugarloaf gained public access in Spring 2014, and the surge of interest engendered by that event overflowed onto this small crag. A sizable crew began visiting, Tom Rosecrans among them. This route deserves the attention he gave it.   Stick-clip the starting bolt, then make a hard move to get situated on the ramp above the overhang. Head up and left into the dihedral, and let the game begin. Stem, jam, layback upward to a point where the angle eases momentarily. Continue up a few feet, toward a series overhangs stepping right up the steepening face - but don't go up them. Instead, step around the corner onto the face to the left, head up to a right-facing flake/corner and take it to its end, then move up and right on the slab to the anchor. The stepped overhangs are perhaps slightly harder than 5.9+.

A small, accessible cliff with excellent rock. The cliff has high-angle face and corner routes, and the climbing is much more difficult than it appears from the ground. There are presently about 8 routes here from 5.8 to 5.11b, with a concentration in the 5.11 range. Most routes have some bolts; all but 1 route require at least a few pieces of gear. 

  The right side of the cliff is split by a right-rising ledge that you can walk comfortably on. Most routes begin from this ledge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cedar River Crag