Overhanging blocky arete for the first 3 bolts. (

High first bolt. Recommend stick-clip.

) Reach a small ledge where there is a large block with a bolt in it. Clip it (optional) climb over the block and right to a tall slab. Thin climbing leads to good edges and pockets through the final steep bulge.

Anchors Away

Bolting Ban

Pulp Friction

Flumetastic

Jug-or-not

Open Project

Flume with a View

Flumetastic Voyage

Bat Company

Lime Light

Ripple Effect

Clockworks

Long Shot

Dream Catcher

Psyche Ward

Vision Quest

A Restless Affair

Flying Snakes

Predator

Never Never Land

The Clock Tower

Bolting Ban is a short route. It is easy to toprope, and could double as a highball boulder problem if you are willing to do it that way. There are no bolts, hence the name.

Need a 70 meter rope. Steepish face leads to long fun slab.

super fun, steep climbing on good holds with big pulls, fixed draws

Project abandoned by Chris Miller circa 2000. I contacted him and he gave permission for the open project.

4 white painted bolts lead to a ledge and steep dirty overhangs with loose rock. Would require extensive cleaning.

Rating is a guess may be harder through the overhangs.

Shares the same insecure start with Flumetastic Voyage to the left. If you botch the first clip you very well may end up in the water (stick-clip useful). Traverse right to a small roof then up a dirty slab with runouts on dirty easy terrain up high. Need a 70m rope.

Insecure start with a poor landing. You may actually end up in the water if you botch the first clip (stick-clip useful). This climb was bolted ground up and has some 30' runouts between bolts albeit on easyish terrain. Not a beginner lead. Need a 70m rope.

Access route/rap route for the Upper Cove wall.

**NOTE***: 70m rope is REQUIRED if you intend to rappel this route. Be certain to tie knots in the ends of the rope as well, it barely makes it down. When throwing your rope, for best results, throw it towards the flume building.

Start just behind the Fir tree, just to the right of the "Clock Tower" boulder.head up the ramp and onto the face towards the roof. Pull the roof on giant holds and continue up the buttress to the giant belay ledge. From here belay up your second and scramble to the Upper Cove wall, or Rap/TR. Use the giant boulder above as a landmark for getting back to the ledge.

fun climbing on steepish face to corner through roof

Starts just right of flying snakes. Climb face through shallow corner and steep headwall on big flakes. Pumpy hand traverse at top makes for an exciting finish.

Josh Horniak's book says "5.11 b 4 bolts.  Bolt anchor.  WO.  A short, fingery climb on the north side of the East Boulder."  Felt much harder than 11b, more like 11d.

face climbing on blocky holds, leads to fun edge climbing on upper face.

climb thorough left side of big roof low on route. continue on fun face moves through roofy bluge and tricky finish to anchors.

LOL is the route right next to Bolting Ban. It is a short, 20-foot climb that can double as a nice highball boulder problem if you are willing to do it. It is easier than Bolting Ban, but can still be a challenge for boulderers. It can be easily toproped, but there are no bolts and minimal possible trad pro, so it can't be leaded.

start on predator, after first roof, veer up and left of predator roof

Part of the West Boulder.  Toprope anchors can be set from the top.

Tricky moves off ground through big roof.  Stellar crack and face climbing above leads to anchors.

Crux is turning lip of roof just below belay anchors.

A testy start for the guidebook 5.9 rating involving a sharp crimp but it is generally juggy fun thereafter. It would be interesting to see some consensus on the grade of this short diversion.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Cove