This route begins on a small crimps for the left and right hands squeezing the arete. Climbs through the roof to a hemhock (crux) and a tricky and committing top out.

Beta: From the two crimps throw up right to a decent jug. Left two up on the arete and do a big move to a could sloper jug. Walk feet up and grab a crimp at the edge of the roof with the right. Heel hook the jug that you just had your hand on and cross with the right to an awesome multi-pocket pinch. Toe down on the edge of the arete (so that your biking) and go up left hand to a good undercling. Heel hook the sloper jug and bust out to the (good) hemhock hold.

Now there are two ways. One that involves hemhocking, and heelhooking in order to match the feature with a good pinch for the left, however this way it is hard to keep your feet. Taller folk bust up to the first of three crimps with the right hand and get it as a pinch, then heel hook and fall in.

From here work through a series of good crimps until you get the good crimp that sits just around the left arete (don't dab on the boulder beside). Match feet (very tenuous) and grab and undercling at shoulder height. Stand up and go big out left around the lip. Get your left foot on the good crimp (that you used to get to the undercling) and top out.

Three stars for awesome holds, good movement, aesthetics, minus one star for the landing.

Gurkha Knife

Toy Piano

Heartless

Black Sea aka The Dead Sea

8 Mile Arete

Dark Continent

Sit start on an obvious left facing side pull. Punch out to the arete, then work up and right.

There's potential for a direct line using bad crimps.

Don't fall down the hill like I did.

Start on two underclings in the back of the cave.  Fun cave climbing on some sick grips leads to some tension moves to top out.

Huge props to Kyram, Dylan and Tanner for putting in the work to open up this climb!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEcRgijjeY6/?igshid=7xrpts7u8efs

This is an oustanding technical climb requiring good crimp strength and footwork. It climbs absolutely perfect black rock. The kind of rock that makes Joe's Valley so special.

Start sitting (more like crouching) on the obvious edge/rail on the right side of the face. Move left and then up via small crimpers, slots and slopey edges and very technical footwork.

This climb is very sustained and does not let up until you are on top.

This problem was originally called 'The Dead Sea' by Jason Kehl and company, who discovered and cleaned the line. You can see the original footage here:

youtube.com/watch?v=ubufXDv…

Stand start on right crimp and left undercling. Move out to the arete and past unique holds to an airy but secure mantle. Not tall enough to be a highball but a fall from near the top is inadvisable.

Start as for Girkha Knife but go straight up to a crimpy pinch, punch to the jug (also on Girkha Knife) and then do a big move to a sloper out right. Top out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 8 Mile Area