Bouldery moves past the first bolt is the crux, but the fun continues as you enter the dihedral above. A fun combination of stemming and liebacking up the corner, which is more strenuous that it looks, leads to anchors.

An area favorite that favors technique over pure strength; the variety of skills needed to climb this make it a good warm-up for the harder lines on this wall.

Rainbow Drive

Easy Prey

This Nazi Shit Won't Do

Sex Magik

Hero Worship

Straight Ahead

Bonus Fat

Body Scum

Crack in the Armor

The Predator

The Deviant

Vertigo

Mental Block

Solitary Confinement

Hallraker

This is the leftmost route on the wall.  Long moves on thin crimps to the second bolt.  After that it gets easier if one stays left, to the right it's more challenging.

Easy Prey is a new route on the far right side of the south face. It starts just below and follows the left side of the arete between the south and east faces.

Positive edges bring you right under the roof. Clip using an extended draw to reduce rope drag before executing a difficult move pass the crux. Continue on easy terrain before pulling pass a slight bulge right below the anchors

Climbs the steep buttress to the left of the Predator, Starts with difficult sidepulls, underclings and slaps up to a steep toss to a far away letterbox to finish.

This route is just right of "

Mental Block

" and to the right of the cave. Start up the slab, steep climbing past bolts(crux) leads to the lip of a bulge, turn the bulge with a long reach to a good jug, continue up the slab to the anchors that are shared with "Vertigo" to the right.

Climb easy blocks past one bolt to the vertical headwall, then crimp and edge your way straight up, past four more bolts, to an anchor over the lip.

Follows obvious crack line up the center of the cave. Steep, tricky, drop knees and slaps.

Climb the left side of the cave, just left of

Crack in the Armor

(5.12a) and right of Sex Magik (5.12c). Steep, knee bars, underclings, powerful and pumpy.

First bolt is shared with Sex Magik, which moves right. Positive edges on slightly overhanging rock. Crux at bolt 4, making a transition around and over a blocky bulge. Finishes up a weakness with good-sized holds and plenty o feet. Great warm-up for the area. Fun movement with finger-friendly holds and even an optional hand jam after the crux.

Located to the right of

Hero Worship

, starts with good moves to sidepulls, climb up to a huge undercling flake, straight up the face or head right to a short crack, top out on big jugs.

Climbs the right side of the cave, just right of

Crack in the Armor

(5.12a). Steep, reachy, bouldery start takes you past the "Mental Block" to a vertical finish.

A technical start leads to broken cracks and crimps, then through a short corner and over a bulge to the anchors.

Stick clip the first bolt, and then climb the vertical/slightly overhanging face past a series of overlapping roofs via thin edges, underclings and sidepulls (a kneebar can be found past the 2nd bolt) to the fourth bolt.

The crux is a continuous series of bouldery moves on small edges from the fourth to fifth bolt as you work past some overlaps and a shallow left-facing corner. Once past the crux, work left to gain the sixth bolt and better holds and then hang on for the ride to the anchors.

Technical and sustained with a good variety of moves make this is a must-do route for the area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Predator Wall - South Face