Daggermouth is a well-protected 16 foot long roof crack at 12,800 feet.

Although it is a P3 variation to

Sheep of Faith

, toprope access is easy from the “top” of the Casual Delight Buttress.

P1-2:

5.10+, 70 meters

Climb the first two pitches of

Sheep of Faith

.

P3:

5.12 PG, 20m

Navigate to the base of the roof making sure to extend your pieces when possible. The first two pieces in the roof (yellow C3 and 0.4) are bomber but tricky and strenuous to place. So temporarily place a #3 while you work them in. The crux is transitioning from face climbing the right lip of the crack to getting your feet up and straight in jamming. This is well protected by a blind #1. After getting fully established in the roof, cruise hand jams to the lip. Pull the lip, and belay at a single bolt and a finger crack at a stance. There is another bolt lower at the lip of the roof that you will likely be unable to clip or even notice while leading. This is because the bolt is for redirecting the follower’s rope or for toproping. Without it, the rope will get sucked into the crack and bring your cams along with it.

After this, there is some 5.0 to the top.

Daggermouth

Sheep of Faith

Casual Delight

It's been a while, so the details are already getting fuzzy.

P1. Gain a ramp to the left of the large left-facing corner, then follow the ramp back right below the corner.

P2. A hand-sized crack (pretty sure) leads to larger gear and some chimney moves. I placed a #4, #5, and #6 BD, mainly because I had them. It could definitely be done with less gear.

P3. Follow easy terrain up and left to an obvious walkoff.

Sheep of Faith is a sustained, 3 pitch adventure in one of Mt. Evans’ more secluded settings. Most notable is the Dinner Plate Roof on pitch 2 that is so steep it’ll have you fully horizontal while floating up huge jugs at 12,800 feet. 5.10 leaders may find themselves gripped as the gear can be tricky, and the Dinner Plate Roof can appear treacherous to navigate, but those with a little faith will find it to be an absolute blast.

The wall stays shaded until about 1pm. Do not climb this after a recent rain as most of the route seeps for about day afterward.

P1:

5.10+, 40m

Start on a ledge at the bottom right end of the buttress. Difficult climbing right off the ledge through a series of 3 bolts with finger-size cams to connect them. The moves are a bit awkward at bolt 3 but are made easier with a blind jug high above it. Hit a grass ledge, follow the slabby, left- leaning finger crack, and traverse left at a bolt. Belay at the base of the corner at a single bolt and horizontal crack.

P2:

5.10, 30m

Climb straight up the great layback corner. The starting gear can be tricky to place. We had luck with a 0.2 and a yellow offset nut. Clip a bolt at the roof of huge exfoliating dinner plates. Don’t let their chunky texture fool you, these things are solid. Jug bash away through the roof. A fully extended horizontal #4 can be placed amongst the plates before pulling the lip. Belay at a two bolt anchor on a mondo ledge.

P3:

5.10 PG, 25m

Follow the corner until the crack cuts left. Instead of following it, climb right to the base of the mega roof crack (

Daggermouth

), and escape via hand traversing out right. A punchy couple 5.10 moves get you over the lip of the roof (loose chockstone too big to come out of the crack) and to easier climbing above. Set a gear anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Casual Delight Buttress