Nemesis is thin, tough, and sure to test your slab puzzle solving abilities. The crux is getting off the ground, but it doesn't let up for a few bolts.

Nemesis

Disco Boy

Gone Fishing

Bear Minimum

There's a Bear! Where? Right There!

Drill 'em and Fill 'em

Nothin' Butt a Thang!

Church of Climbintology

Ian’s Route #2

Bear Down On It!

Temptation of the Left Layback

Rico Suave Made Me Do It

Bearington Bear Goes Boltin'

The Tree Sawga

UnBearably Yellow Spider

Ants in My Shoe

Jerr Bear's Final Lick

Teddy Bear Two Step

Slabsters Lament

Baby Bear Layback

Nothin' Butt a Rainy Day Thang

Amazing Feets of Glory

Fingerbanger

Smokey Bear Sidepull

Dingo, Dango, Dyno

Chris Wilson Made Me Do It

Old Trad Crack

This is a fantastic climb for the grade that delivers everything from undercling, slab, and layback crack moves.

Start up a crack system, climbing into a small, right-facing corner with a bolt out right on the face just under a roof. A second bolt protects the roof move. Move up and left past a 3rd bolt to the anchors.

Follow the obvious crack on the slab where there is a splitter about 15 feet up. The splitter is the crux most definitely. Laybacks and friction on your feet are a must to get solid progression through. After the splitter, there are solid hands and feet the rest of the way the slab. There is a two bolt anchor up top just below a tree.

Bear Minimum is aptly named. Protection is scarce and not ideal, but one is able to clip bolts from neighboring routes if need be. Climbing it on TR is a far more enjoyable experience and is strongly recommended.

You can set up a toprope by going left after climbing

Bearington Bear Goes Boltin'.

Climb a thoughtful crux through a bulge to easier climbing finishing with a thin slab.

This is a fun route, but it is short.  The crux is getting past 2nd bolt.

This is a mixed climb with fun movement down low leading to some thinner slab to the anchors.

A tricky roof move leads to thin face climbing. This looks very dire from the ground, but it gets less dire once you're on it.

Follow the crack right next to

Amazing Feets of Glory

. The crux is getting off the ground, but this should be manageable despite being unprotected. You could bring a cam for down low, but if you’re at Morning Glory, you should be fairly comfortable leading this grade. After that, it’s super easy to the top with huge jugs and nicely placed bolts.

Follow a crack to a nice ledge, then climb past 3 bolts of face climbing to a 2 bolt anchor - high quality moves. The protection is great before the bolted finish.

This is super thin and techy. A hard start leads to manageable climbing. As the name suggests, don't use the features left of the bolts (even though they are very close and totally in bounds, you must remember that the FA party is always watching you....judging you...).

Jam and layback your way up the low angle dihedral. This has fun, varied moves with good placements throughout. Until this route gets more traffic, bring your gardening gloves.

Easy moves to a high first bolt leads to a juggy face. Things thin out up top.

Put in work on a thin face to a small roof, you'll be rewarded with positive holds to the anchors. There is groundfall potential until you pass the roof, and this fall involves hitting a prominent stump.

Work up a right-trending crack to gain the slightly overhanging face. At times the holds can be difficult to find, but you'll know when you've found them.

This is a tricky route overall, but it is enjoyable and should clean up nicely.

I am adding this for historical sake. I did not climb this - it looked wicked dirty, and we ran out of daylight. This seemed kind of fun from afar.

While the route has recently been extensively cleaned by the FA party, loose rocks persist and it would be wise to wear a helmet.

A tricky thin start leads to a good rest. From the top of the blunt arete, make a fun transition onto the face, and head up to the anchors.

Cool stemming leads to good holds that get smaller and less positive the higher you go. There is a techy crux around bolt 5. Staying right of the bolt line is slightly easier, but still 5.10.

Techy face climbing suddenly switches up to a tricky roof move.

This is a short but super fun line! As the name implies, layback the crack (pumpy!) until you can make an interesting transition to the face. It protects well and is worth the walk.

A tricky start yields to easier but sustained slabbin' goodness. There is a second crux higher up.

About 2/3rds of the way up, the bolts stop, and it is runnout as the dickens! Thankfully it is very easy, and if you made it this far, you're unlikely to fall, but still....just take the path of least resistance, and aim for the anchors directly above the small pine.

Follow easy steps up to a large ledge to begin the real fun. Use the crack between the two perpendicular walls to ascend using good footwork. The crux is getting off the large ledge. Laybacks and stems will bring you to the two bolt anchor. An attentive belayer is a must, as the ledgy nature of the lower half could allow for some nasty falls.

The crux is getting off the ground. This route can easily become harder than a 10 if you don’t get the correct sequence. This is essentially a bolted highball. It’s not worth climbing unless looking to warm up for the more challenging climbs to the left.

This is a nice line that finishes with the crux. Bolts one and two move through the lower easy section. Bolts three and four involve slab movement but are still fairly easy. After clipping bolt five, follow the block hanging out of the wall to clip bolt six. From here, it is a committing move to a jug. Clip the anchors from the jug.

Work up the path of least resistance in a broken crack system just right of the mini-buttress. The rock quality is sandy and exfoliating at times, and there are still some loose rocks, so wear a helmet.

This is the furthest crack on the upper wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Morning Glory Wall