Enjoy techy moves through the first bolt (easier if tall).  The crux (significantly easier if tall) is at the obvious blank section, where moving to the right is on the next route and will drop the grade.

Tricks

Eye Brow

Roofing Madness (Reefer Maddness)

Agent Orange

Rambo

I-Beam

Direct Drive

First Blood

White Water

Astro Projection

Rambo Direct

Broken Finger

Hickory

Pine

New Generation - 5.12a

Maple

One of the best at Moc.  Climb straight through the bolt line passing two roofs.  The final roof is excellent and consists of a jug haul out to the final roof crack.

Mild overhang 30 ft up. Crack offers great protection.

Climb ledges to a small roof. Work your way over the roof to the anchors.

Holzman calls this one of the best 12s in PA and I wouldn't argue, especially if you like crimps.  The splashed orange color and rippling feet add to the enjoyment. 

  Angle up a left slanting rail to some small but reasonable holds to make the first clip.  A fall here wouldn't be fun without a boulder pad (stick-clipping is for pansies).  After the heinous clip blast through a thin section of micro-crimps and small feet.  Another powerful move awaits after the second clip (also tough).  Once established on the horizontal above the second bolt, take a deep breath and climb some easier ground to the anchors.

Follow a corner to bolt with a horizontal capped ceiling. Move up to another bolt then into a shallow corner, then to the top.

Look for the mineral deposits and chalk running down the wall, step up the the incut in the rock below the bolt. follow the route straight up, first crux between the first two bolts. (Hint: finger lock) after that continue straight up to the the second crux below 3rd bolt. after that head up, pull through the over hand and head up and left to the bolted anchor. Enjoy

Though the roof is a little intimidating, the crux is probably on the lower face.  Layback the roof flake to a welcome jug.  Missing the third clip would be a safe but "uncomfortable" fall.  After the roof, easy run-out climbing leads to a nice two bolt anchor.

A surprisingly fun route on solid rock.  A bouldery move just off the deck is the business and a fall wouldn't be recommended until you get gear in the first horizontal crack.  The climbing is straight forward once you hit the horizontal but gear is a little sparce. 

  Undoubtedly someone else has lead this route before.  If anyone knows the FA then let me know.

A few feet right of Black Beard lock into a short crack to a horizontal and step right and up to a good ledge. Then up a slabby face to the anchors.

Power through a bulge approx 10 feet off the ground at the first bolt, then follow the bolt line straight to the last bolt of I-beam.  The top of the route is sustained and fun but the crux for me was definitely at the first bolt.     

  There are multiple ways to finish this route but I feel this is way makes the most sense.

Start just to the right of Rambo under a bolt and a small ceiling. Fly to a horizontal under the ceiling and then move left to join the Rambo route.

Crux seams to be right off the ground since you need to stabilize using the finger cracks as you smear on the adjacent slab. once you finish the slabcrack you need to get around a protruding feature and traverse up and right then out on to the face at the top of blackbeard ending at the anchors above.

Climb the arete on the Hickory Wall just to the right of Maple. There are a few good crimps and a nice ledge at the crux near the top of the route.

Climb small ledges to the crux mantle about 15' below the anchors.

Double roof route. Original route was considered 5.12, may be a little easier now.

Climb the center face of the Hickory wall. This route has some cracks and good ledges.

Paradise is one of the first walls you will see on your way to the Library. The routes are trad leads, with a few supplemental bolts drilled where pro is scarce.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Paradise