The left-most route at Gallows. A good, low-angle crack line that makes for a nice beginner trad lead as it protects very well. 

Butler Route

99 Red Balloons

Fezzik (Andre the Giant)

The Fire Swamp

Once Were Warriors

Westley

The Giant Killer

As You Wish

Pejos Route

Gallows' Girdle

R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size)

Unknown Crack Route

Princess Buttercup

Unknown Crack

Planet of the Apes

Prince Humperdink

The 6-fingered Man

The first bolted route right of the large chimney near the middle of the main wall. Fun face climbing with a steep finish on jugs. Using the arete on the left keeps the climb at 5.8.  More challenging is not using the arete and making the route 5.9ish.

The crux is between the ledge where the anchors are located and above the big boulder/ledge. Using only the pockets without the arete makes it harder than 5.9.

One of the better routes at Gallows. Thin moves down low lead to very nice, bigger pockets higher up.  Good stone.

Easy climbing then more fun face climbing to the steep finish on big holds.

A short but steeper face route between The Fire Swamp and Princess Buttercup. Follow the blunt, curving arete up a line of bolts. Seemingly more difficult than the rating suggests.

The slabby, short face at the far right end of the main wall. The first ten feet are steep and then the angle backs off for the remaining 20 feet. Mostly soloed for years but after comments from folks in the FA party about it possibly getting bolted to add another beginner sport lead to an area that's known for its beginner sport routes, bolts were added in summer 2008.

This is a steep face route with some shark-mouthed pockets. The crux is moving beyond the 2nd bolt. Gain a ledge below the third bolt. A forth bolt protects the face to the left of the arete with friendly ledges to the anchors. There is an easier variation by climbing further left of the bolt line and a harder variation just right of the bolt line.

A small overhang at the bottom leads to thin face climbing to a nice ledge. Take a break at the ledge and then tackle the steep finish.

Start at Fezzik (Andre the Giant) and head left until you're at the chains of the Butler route. Choose your own adventure style climbing; I stayed fairly high (2/3rd to most anchors) and leap frogged a couple draws to manage drag. I found the downclimb from high on "Prince Humperdink" to midway up "As You Wish" to be a bit awkward, pretty chossy, and unprotected. Maybe a larger cam would protect here.

R.O.U.S. is a clean face route on really good rock with a bit of thin face climbing before a small roof move near the top.  Make some easy scrambling moves up six feet to a comfy stance, solid hand jam and the first bolt. Face climb on small holds through the crux of the route between bolts 2 and 3 using small pockets and edges past a couple more bolts up to a small ledge and small roof. It is here, under the roof, that R.O.U.S.es may be hiding. Move quickly!  The well-protected mini-roof move is another crux to a super large ledge and the anchor.  

  Rodents Of Unusual Size (ROUS) reside in the Fire Swamp and attacked Princess Buttercup and her companion Westley when they bravely entered the Fire Swamp. If you're not familiar with R.O.U.S.es watch a short segment from the movie The Princess Bride. At about 6:13 minutes into the segment the R.O.U.S.es appear.  

youtube.com/watch?v=jKxo5y8…

The off-width crack right of Planet of the Apes. Short route.

A pocketed, slabby route that makes for a good beginner sport lead.

A nice layback and crack climb up the obvious crack between 99 Red Balloons and Once Were Warriors. Use anchors of either neighboring climb or gear anchor.

The left-most bolted route at the Gallows Edge main wall. Easy climbing down low to a fun, challenging and airy arete finish.  One anchor bolt was replaced in April 2007.

The hardest route at Gallows Edge. Stick-clip the high first bolt and work your way through short, steep and powerful moves through a series of two-finger pockets near the arete to a huge jug below the very high first bolt. Using the arete on the right apparently makes it a bit easier (5.11-ish) but seems natural and arguably more fun. A few more steep moves lead to the second bolt before the angle backs off past the third bolt to the anchors for The Fire Swamp.

Pros:  short, easy, well-protected, don't need expensive cams--in these respects a good beginning lead. 

  Cons:  short.

The Main Wall at Gallows Edge has the largest concentration of routes at Gallows. 8 bolted routes and a few crack lines are found here. 

  Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons discovered this wall, and solo'd most of the 1st ascents. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall