Esquire is the easiest route on the wall and still packs a punch above the 2nd bolt. The climbing is much easier after but stays sustained all the way to the anchor.

Esquire

Gentleman

Queen's Gambit

Prince Mushroom

Jughead

Dutchess

Duke

Knight

Baron

Lady

Knight is a must do route and the first one at the crag. Ramble up the broken ledges to the 1st bolt. Engage a tricky crux past the 2nd bolt on a bad sloper. Continuous 5.11 climbing leads to another crux through a thin seam. Keep it together for the final mantel thrutch to the clipping holds for the anchor.

Boulder through a steep start, and then make a fun, slabby mantel at the top as you near the anchors.

Queen's Gambit is the hardest route at the crag and first one you come to walking up the hill. Slap your way up the subtle prow using the crack on the right for your feet. The 4th bolt forces you onto the face and the tricky crux on good crimps. A gaston and undercling get you the lip and the mantel to the anchor.

Prince Mushroom is a great, moderate, sport route on quality stone. It is a good option for beginner lead climbers. Start left of the bolt line, and angle up and right on all kinds of jugs. Step right at bolt 5 before moving back left through the heartbreaker crux on excellent white and black striped granite.

Jughead ascends the aesthetic arete feature on a small pillar. Fun climbing up the arete leads to a cruxy move to the massive jug at the top of the prow.

Dutchess is one of the better routes on the wall. It has technical climbing on interesting grips and good stone.

Duke is the hardest route on the main wall, and it tackles a tricky bulge low on the route. The climbing is easier to the top on very nice stone.

Layback your way up the chossy wide crack. Baron is surprisingly steep and pumpy.

Lady climbs very similar to its neighbor, although it may be a bit easier overall. It has a steep bouldery start, some vertical climbing, then a slab to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Kingfin Crag