Cool varied route up face to a left-leaning shallow dihedral and a steep finish. Sustained at the grade - might be 10a (only 1 lead and 1 toprope opinion on rating right now).

Note - about half the bolts on this route are currently 1/4". I'll try to upgrade summer 2011.

Lost Cause

Finders Keepers

Armed Knobbery

Losers Weepers

Found

Runaway

Merely Misplaced

Terrorist

Rock Vixen

Where Your Eyes Don't Go

Not All Who Wander

Losing It

Working For Peanuts

Truth and Reconciliation

Lost With a GPS

Super knobby route which starts up to a serrated flake about 15' up, then heads straight up the huge knobs. Originally done with no bolts (other than the anchor), but that was pretty dumb...

Make sure to save a 1" cam for the horizontal crack, since the pro in the flake above is hollow.

Possible to tie off a knob or two.

Awesome knobby grey/black streak heading up the low-angle wall to the right of Rock Vixen. One long pitch from the uppermost ledge (3rd class), or can be done from the ground with a 70m rope.

A fun climb to the right of Finders Keepers, this route is slabby instead of knobby and requires more footwork skill. Look for cams in horizontal cracks to protect the upper part of the route.

Originally toproped by the FA of 'Merely Misplaced,' we were intrigued by the climb.  Fortunately, Jonathan agreed to letting us bolt the roof and we added this enjoyable direct start.  The 10b grade is geared for average height.  Taller individuals may find it easier and shorter climbers may find it significantly harder.

The route joins 'Merely Misplaced' at the fourth bolt.  There is small pro available in a horizontal crack about 10-12' above the 3rd bolt of 'Found.'

Black streak on the right side of the steep wall.

Fun easy romp, but with a roof that may be harder for shorter folks. Tuolumne sport, but that means quite runout!

Toproping over the biggest part of the roof below is only 5.10b or so, according to several tall guys at least...

The grey streak just right of Runaway. Free solo first ascent - imagine that while you are wondering if a knob might break on one of the newer routes!

Fun moderate route, but no joke getting to the first pro - a little bit crumbly, and on the R/X side of R since the bolt is about 40-50 feet above a flat granite ledge.

The route wanders above - good route-finding skills are needed to find the easiest way.

Fun climb up strange overlaps with a balancy crux (which is easier for those 6'2" or taller - I'm only 6' dang it!). The first pitch is a sport route, the second and third are trad.

Second pitch is 5.9 past a couple bolts, then trad gear, head up flake to ledge, then up and left along horizontal cracks and past a black bulge to a bolted anchor at 105' (a long 60 might just make it on rappel - so use 70 or two ropes...). Third pitch is a 5.8 boulder problem off the belay ledge (don't fall), then easier climbing for a long time (about 180' pitch).

Getting to the first bolt ranges from 5.8 to 5.11 depending on which way you go - perfect flat sandy landing to boulder what you want.

Fun knobby route which passes two roofs, the second one is pretty wild for the grade!

Cool funky roof/overlap cruxes lead to a gorgeous golden knobby face. Second pitch goes past some golden slab, horizontal cracks, and a knobby bulge to a large ledge with a bolted anchor (5.9, 90'). Third pitch wanders up easy, indistinct climbing (somewhat dirty).

Impressive and super dangerous old route over roofs and up a black streak.

Since the first pitch only had 2 pieces of pro for the first 90' (including 40' of overhang/overlap climbing), the first a missing piton, there is probably no way to repeat the lead of this route without bringing hammer and thin pins. The pro bolt and anchor bolts have been replaced.

P1 (5.8, PG13) - Climb up the flake/crack (gear) to a point about 5' below the lip/roof.  Clip a bolt out right and move right/up to gain the lip.  Surmount the lip (bolt), then climb up easier ground (!gear!) to a low angle slab.  Climb the slab past two bolts to the anchor.

P2 (10b) - From the anchor move slightly left then up excellent face climbing past two bolts to easier ground.  Pass another bolt straight up to a shallow left facing flake/corner (gear) and another bolt.  From this bolt, move straight left for about 8-10' then find the easiest way up to the next bolt.  Move out left and diagonal up across small holds (10b), toward the left hand edge of the buttress (green alien in slot under lip).  Work the left edge (grainy), past the lip to another bolt and good stance.  Follow the last three bolts (10b) on fine crimps and smears to a big knob and the anchor.

Note: on the FA, my partner and I had quite differing perceptions of the two cruxes on the second pitch.  I thought the first crux was more in the 10b/c range and the second crux 10a.  She thought the first crux was 10a and the second crux 10b.

Wandering route with a hollow flake. The crux is a slabby section right at the last bolt (near the top), initially rated 5.9 but consensus is 5.8.

When you reach the flake, save the 1.25" cam until you reach an obvious placement that doesn't sound hollow (not the initial obvious placement which is very hollow)!

I added a bolt in 2010 to protect the initial bulge (since the only other pro is a fixed pin that won't last forever).

Toproping the direct start is about 5.10a.

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Routes in Lost Wall