This climb has an ugly beginning and end but a stellar middle.

Pitch 1 A short approach pitch the guide book lists as 4th but is harder than that. Ugly and loose.

Pitch 2 A hollow sounding flake to start, then sustained good rock. Next are a couple of offwidth pods with a crack in the back. Sustained. Get one rest right before the crux. An optional intermediate belay to an ugly finish with more loose flakes.

The Thief

The Princess

Megaforce (aka Magnum Force)

This is a good short climb worth doing if you are in the area for The Thief and other cragging. It is just to the left of the terrace which The Thief and The Joker start off of.

There is a 30ft tall block at the base of the wall. The Princess starts up the left side of the block in a somewhat dirty fist and offwidth crack. From the top of the block climb another 30 feet of thin cracks/flakes with abundant footholds to reach the bolted anchors just below the small roof.

The rap bolts have been recently replaced and are bomber.

Im not sure of the correct name for this route; the Reid guide uses Megaforce in the main content, but Magnum Force in the First Ascent Index. Whatever its name, this route climbs the steep orange flakes on the face to the right of The Thief. The flakes on the first half of the route are probably not solid enough to hold gear, making this a dangerous lead. It can be toproped/top belayed after climbing The Thief all the way to the ledge.

To reach the base of the climb, scramble up 4th class on the right side of the terrace. The route begins with a bit of face climbing to reach the first flake. Handjam and then move up and slightly left through a bulge to transfer to another flake. More jamming leads to the top of this flake where a tricky traverse must be made to another flake out left. The crux is knowing where to make this traverse because it is impossible to look into the crack you are moving into. If you find the secret foot jam and accompanying finger lock its not too hard. If not, expect a brutal lieback with terrible feet on lichenous rock. Either way this flake leads up through some knobs and shelves to easier ground and the top.

The rappel anchor consists of two rusty nuts, two old pitons, and a 1/4 bolt all brought together in a giant clusterfuck of tattered webbing. From this you can rappel back to the top of the terrace with two ropes, or rappel with one rope over left to the bolted anchor on The Thief.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Watchtower