A slabby start will soon have you cursing all the way up an overhung blue streak. This is a sensational climb with small nubbins and tons of thinker moves with strangely contorted hand placements onto vaginal and anal-like holds.  

  BETA INTENSIVE AND TECHNICAL!  

  This one will be sure to shock your huge ego into submission.

Twisted Shocker

Lucky Strike

Witchnose Arete

Electric Sex

Donkey Punch

Vibrator

Pulling Toobers

Awesome pocket pulling with big ledges when they are needed. This route boasts a tricky series of moves and a sweet roof pull that requires a bit of strategy and beta. Hint: Grab the flake on the left! 

  This might not be the hardest 5.11 in the area but it is a hellava fun climb. If you have the strength to keep going this route has a high send-ability factor because the eleven climbing is pretty much over after the roof pull. 

  A great follow-up climb if you got lucky on Lucky Strike or a great warm-up for Electric Sex because of the steep, powerful climbing you will encounter while working your way up this sexy arete.

Line up your target as straight as you can, keep your foot pace steady, take a deep breath and release. And just remember, it's all on the wrist. 

  About seven bolts worth of sequential, yet very powerful climbing starts with a roof pull that lead to a killer overhung section with huge holds-if you can find them-before the pump burns you out. What comes next is a section where you think your ball is rolling left...and then right again...in order to gain a crux hold at the anchors, with slopers the rest of the way. 

  Great Climb! Not easy! Go warm up on Lost Ninja if you are concerned about your form and finesse before you try this tough, canyon classic. This pumpy route requires a working man's stamina and the grace of a yoga master. The tricky sequences and small, smeary foot holds will have you toeing the line wondering if you are going to be able to knock down every pin or end up in the gutter. 

  Onsightable, definately...but only for the lucky few. If you are a fan of the 5.10's on The Big Black Face this climb is a worthy alternative to standing in line and waiting. Get on it!

A slightly overhung pocketfest. The first few bolts are a little tricky, but well worth the effort to reach the pockets and edges at the high crux. Very well protected and safe if you can scramble in from the right to reach the belay anchor above the band of red shale.

Stick the first and pull a really powerful crux to gain the face.  Climb easy face until the last bolt in the black rock.  Going straight up the bolt line puts you in a hard-to-reverse sequence that would bring the grade up to 13a.  Alternatively traverse left about midway to the next route and find yourself standing on a ledge with the bolt below and right of you.  Continue straight up on some semi-hard slab moves then move back to the right to the anchors.

Walk uphill to the right, then traverse back left on top of the choss band.  Careful with the rope here - it is possible to dislodge rocks as you walk over.  Fairly easy moves get you to the top of the bulge then the business starts.  Unfortunately the crux is a bit desperate with minimal feet with the bolt below you... over the bulge making for a potentially awkward fall.  Moving the bolt 2 ft to the right would be nice, or alternatively just plan on pushing out to the right when you fall to avoid the bulge.  Harder than Electric Sex but due to the awkward fall gets less stars.

Shares the same slabby start as Twisted Shocker and traverses up and right on small crimps, pockets and sidepulls right up until a stopper crux at the 5th bolt.  

  TECHNICAL AND PUMPY! 

  Once the traversing stops find a sick, two-finger ledge and crank to some perfect, incut crimps. Locate the right combination of feet nubbins and launch for a slopey handhold that will allow you to launch to another jug to clip.  

  Ends on slabby/slopey yet oddly overhung terrain for two more bolts that will be guaranteed to keep any overly pumped climber on their toes.

A small, sunny wall of two buttresses with a handful of routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Snext Wall