The patinaed blobs on this route may look like good, positive holds, but they are not.  Its almost as if someone reverse-chipped them to be a lot crappier than they originally were!  Never-the-less, this is a nice sustained test-piece that should not be overlooked.

Telaviv

Stretch Marks

Muffin Top

Built for Comfort

Aspen Leaf

Love Handles

Bad Crack

This unique route is located to the left of

Telaviv

, 5.12b. The first easy pitch scrambles up grooves and a short loose hand crack to a belay platform.  The 2nd pitch is looming above up. Crank into the overhanging dihedral with liebacks and stems.  There is great exposure and gear in this section.  After pulling the lip, stroke a long hand crack to a ledge.

Scramble to climber's right and find the rap anchors above Stretch Marks.

I have never seen anyone on this route, even though it is high quality and 100ft from the parking lot.  Scramble up a long 4th class ramp to access this pitch.  Climb an obtuse dihedral to the right of the patina covered face of Telaviv.  The climb has some great jamming and liebacks for the grade.  Rap off the chains above the route.

The crux (some have said 5.7) is at the "muffin" bulge, about 30' up. Great easy crimping and continuous climbing. A great introduction for beginner sport leaders. Top anchor was recently moved to avoid diagonal cleaning issue.

The crux,can be done 2 ways at about the same grade.

A nice addition to the area for the 5.9 leader.

The right-most, and most-varied of the 3 bolted routes in this spot. The crux is moving up and left below the obvious bush. Nice moves above lead to a steep finish.  This may have previously been known as "Wide Cracks" before the bolts went in.

Bad Crack starts in the middle of the wall and climbs the largest, most prominent crack splitting the buttress. Start on the face to the right of the wide crack or begin directly in the crack/chimney. If you choose to use the face, climb until you reach a horizontal break, then move left and join the crack. Continue to follow the crack to the top or shorten the journey by breaking right to the

Muffin Top

anchor. A bit of a grunt at the bottom, this line is best left for the Greg Lowe aficionados!

If you follow the old, original line, climb to the top of the buttress, build an anchor, rap from Stretch Marks or down climb to the north.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Breadloaves - West