Sit start on two okay pinches then slap your way up good holds with odd feet and tension and a slightly scary move to an undercling-side pull at about 10 feet. The big jug out left is OFF route. If you go left then trav back into the problem this is not the v8 way it was first done. Once on the left hand undercling you can get your feet up and commit to the tall slab above which has a long move to reach the lip at about 20 feet. I did this problem 8/08 and only recently went back to get the thing on video.

As for grade: it's harder (for me) than the other area problems

Extension

, V8;

Return of the Jedi

, V8;

Romeo

, V8; and

Cool Arete

, V9, but this is bouldering, so V7-V10 is the range depending on your strengths and stature.

Dem Apples

Route 3

Romeo

Hangar

Kevin's Problem

Mercutio

Hit!

V1 Sloper

Rhythm of the Saints

Star Crossed Lovers

Cool Arete

Route 2

Crimp Route

V0/1

Route 5

Route 1

Juliet

Star-Crossed Romeo

Big Boulder - First Problem

Dem Krusbär

Route 4

Dem Krusbär ascends a rad, bulbous arete. Sit start with your right hand on a sloper sidepull, your left hand on a crimper on the left side of the arete, and with a low, right heel hook. Fun moves lead up to a rad pinch. Continue up the arete using small left hand crimp. It would be especially classic if it weren't so close to

Dem Apples

, but it is worth doing for the rock quality.

This is the first route right of the downclimb. It is likely the easiest route here.

Start a little left of the first bolt. Clip first bolt from left-facing sidepull. Climb up and a little right through one jug and on to the face which is slabby, so just trust your feet. The feet are pretty decent, some get small. The crux for me was clipping and climbing past the fourth bolt. Use small crimps and dishes to climb up to a visible, left-sloping ledge. If you can clip the fourth bolt from below this ledge, do it. If not, climb a little past the ledge using crimps on and around the ledge to get a good, right-facing sidepull, and clip from here. Then make your way onto this ledge using a high, left hand, pocket-type pinch thing. The pocket is not good until you push with your left leg, then you can reach a right-facing, jug sidepull out to the right past the ledge. The rest of the climb is smooth sailing.

Sit start to the left of

Star Crossed Lovers

. This is a short problem with a few powerful moves. It is fun forest climbing.

Hangar is potentially a forgotten boulder problem? A lowball, comp-like, morpho boulder hidden below a bolted route gives you underclings, crimps, slopers, and some weird body positioning. Start deep in the cave on a left hand crimp-rail and right hand pinch block. Move up the overhanging dihedral, and exit to the right. The grade is speculative.... There is a video in the comments.

Stand start crossmatched in the slash left of

ROTS

. Climb hard moves up and left.

Do the same start as

Star Crossed Lovers

, but go left from the flake to a clearly chalked up left exit. It is slightly harder that the direct line.

The problem sits on the boulder just across from "

Cool Arete

" on the right corner of the face.  SDS with left hand on a good, left-facing sidepull and right hand a small, right-facing crimp.  Slap up right and keep making long moves up good compression style holds till a large crimp in the middle, then toss for the top.  There is cool air coming from below the boulder that keeps the holds crisp.

Climb slopers to a big jug, then mantle up.

Start sitting under the overhang on a large triangle block. Climb left a touch then straight up.

Rhythm of the Saints is on the backside of the main boulder, directly across from the "

Cool Arete

." It is steep, powerful, and has a tricky mantle.

Start seated and just left of the northern prow of the Aircraft Carrier. A few juggy pulls will get you to the crux where good core tension should keep you on from a crimp to a sloper then a pinch and finally a jug. You get bonus points if you cut your feet while grabbing the jug. A couple more easy moves and the mantel, and this one's in the bag.

Start down and right on some jugs. Begin by traversing left towards the arete for about 6 to 8 moves.  A couple of hard moves and you will be climbing the arete itself for about 4 moves before reaching a jug. Continue climbing jugs  to the top of the arete.

Again I am still wondering about grade and names of these routes.

Start a little left of the first bolt, and use left-facing edges/laybacks to climb right to the first bolt. Once on the slab part of the climb, it's easy going with pretty decent feet. This ends on same anchors as

Route 1

.

Sit start to the left of the V3 as you approach The Aircraft Carrier. Start under a small overhang, and climb out on small crimps to a positive topout.

Climb up some good holds just left of the large underhang.

Again I am still curious of grade and name of this route.

Start below first bolt climb to a slopey ledge using small crimps and small feet.  This part is super balance oriented. Find small crimps and slopey sidepulls to get to the roof. Figure out your feet, and reach up to some slopers and crimps. High step your feet to some slopey feet, and stand up on to a slabby face. Climb up to the anchors.

I am still wondering what all these routes are rated and named, but here is a photo. If anyone knows these, please email me. Climb up the slab. This is a warm-up and an easy climb for people learning to lead.

Juliet has a shared sit-start with

Star-Crossed Lovers

, but twist out right to extremely sharp crimps and a big move to the lip. A harder direct start may be possible.

Start for

Star Crossed Lovers

, and move left into

Romeo

.

This is the first problem you'll see when hiking to the Aircraft Carrier. It is on a large boulder right below the final hill to the main spot.

I am not sure about FAs or actual names on these. This is very straightforward with a couple long pulls on jugs.

Again I am still curious of this route's grade and name.

Start below first bolt, and climb crimps, edges, and a pinch on top of a left-leaning, undercling thingy to clip the first three bolts. The holds/crimps get better at the third bolt. After the third bolt, obtain an undercling which is above your head, and reach right for sidepull or crimp that allows you to high step your left foot. Then reach up with your right hand for an amazing, resting, jug flake. The fourth bolt is now about head height out to the left. Reach up to a ledge that has some jugs and sloper jugs on it. This was the crux for me trying to clip and get the rope in the draw. Move left on the ledge, and clip the fourth bolt. Climb past the ledge to slopey feet then to better feet and decent holds to the anchors which are a little right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Aircraft Carrier