There is a small crack about 15 up and to the climbers left from this crack system (the belay), and that is about the only place you can get any gear in.  Grippy but somewhat loose (re: sometimes easily broken) granite knobs.  This lower part is the crux, going about 5.5 in our opinion.  Not much protection (none), and severe consequences for a fall.  A fall from here would likely be terminal.  There is a dubious bolt  a hexhead 3/16 bolt in some (?) anchor holding on an aluminum hanger (which seemed strong enough, had the anchor been better) - Hubble called this the "death bolt" in his book.  After clipping this dubious protection,  you are able to walk up the steep slab (4th class very steep slab X rating).  The next person who goes down there for this route would do everyone a favor by replacing this "bolt" with a real bolt.  With careful consideration and a range of small cams, you can get a few decent placements on this route.  A double-bolt hanger/belay has been installed BELOW the roof, so a 60m rope will reach it from the belay ledge below.  Above the anchors, you can carefully circle around to the right (east) and get on top to the summit and the rap anchors above the Bolted Route 5.7+.

Steep 3rd class (but falling would be very, very bad).  (2) 60m ropes BARELY reached the ground just below the Velcro Wall.  You can rap down with 1 70m rope to the mid-rap anchors, and then down to the bottom of the Velcro Wall.  Note: A

60m WILL NOT

REACH the intermediate belay/rap anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Ramp