For Shawshank, rock quality is good. Start where chimney and stacked slabby blocks meet. Climb through four bolts utilizing crimps, side pulls, gastons, and a two handed jug/crack at top. Make sure you find the jug side pull to clip the chains. Advisable to stick clip first bolt.

13. Permission to Piss

5.  Toillette de la Porcupine

6.  Shin Dig

Bad Nose Job

11.  Jack 2001

14. Andy Dufrense Got the Best of Him

12. Warden Norton’s Chimney

10.  Leaving Tracks

7.  Wet Zipper

4.  Hans Solo

3.  April Fools

8.  5.12?

1.  5.12?

2.  March Madness

9.  5.11

Birth Canal

Fun easy chimney to access top. Climbing is easy, but pro is not great (but not really needed either).

Start in the corner directly above the pile of porcupine crap.  Use the crack in the corner, then work over the right onto the face.  Bring small to medium nuts and cams.

This is a great wandering climb over a scantily stting block.  Follow the crack along the right side of the block then pull up to mantle the block.  From here, follow the crack to the top.  Some micro cams to protect the thin crack at the top would be a good idea.  

Begin with two hands matched on the lower of two crimps. Follow the protruding feature for an engaging few moves.

An excellent beginning leader route.  Begin at the crack to the right of the last climb.

Stick clip first bolt as it will be hard to clip on route. The route starts up a block/arete. Make a series of bouldery compression moves to gain first bolt. Between the 1st and 2nd bolt is the crux. Climb through a not great sloping ledge. Second half of the route eases up with a series of incut edges.

Bolted in Spring 2021. Start on head height ledge and follow face through three bolts to ring anchors. First bolt is high, so you may want to stick clip it.

This is a great beginning leader route.  Climb the obvious corner/crack system.  Place gear in the crack at the top then stem (crux) to the top out.

This Route also require's some bigger cams.  Follow the jagged crack as it goes from an undercling to a big pull (crux move) to top out.

This climb follows a series of ramps and medium cracks.  

This climb has not yet been redpointed.  

This face just left of the prominent crack (March Madness) has not yet been redpointed.

This is an excellent crack climb complete with liebacks and jams.  You'll nee a few bigger pieces to lead this one.

This climb follows the arete just left of Leaving Tracks.  It has not yet been redpointed.

Squeeze into Mother Nature's womb and reemerge a new being by achieving upward progress.

This crag offers a variety of short (20-30 ft) traditional and top ropes climbs. Trad routes range from 5.5 to 5.10 and all are easily protected. While it isn’t the best crag in MQT, it has some of the best views from the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shawshank