A nice off-width boulder problem in the playground area.

After multiple laps on right-side-in off-width climbs like Maria's, the crucible, big grunt and arch crack, friends and I started joking that left-side-in cracks could only be found south of the equator. Sure there's sickle crack or Eric's crack, but when I found this one, it just felt natural to call it "South of Ecuador."

Let me be frank... I don't know who climbed this first but I can say with complete certainty it wasn't me. I'm also probably not the first to name it. If you climbed it and have a better name with a better back story, share it! otherwise, get out there and enjoy this little bit off-width awesomeness!

South of Ecuador

The Vision

Stealth Bomber

American Gypsy

5.8 Crack

Rough Boys

5.7 Crack

Control Tower Arete

Syncopation

Control Tower

Glass Animals

Cameron's Traverse

Death Vomit

Control Tower (East Face)

This is the wide crack encountered on the same face as Fallen Gypsy but to its right.

Perfect Woodson slab/face.  Don't even think about it if it's hot.

This is a very hard thin lieback/friction route in a shallow dihedral of sorts.

A couple of great boulder problems in a small corridor. The Kennedy/Hubbard guide lists 3 variations, though I could only come up with two.

Rough Boys (Right):

Start on small crimps in the middle of the face and make a big move to the lip/dike feature.

Rough Boys (Left):

Same start in the middle of the face, but traverse left, heading towards a few good knobs to topout on.

This is the crack climb on the backside of the Fallen Gypsy boulder, same side as Cameron's Traverse.  Cheat stones for the start lead to a bit of an alcove/recess, then up an ever narrowing section of crack to finish.  Super rock quality, but the recess area deters a bit.

The northeast arete of control tower is a bit easier than the north face, climbing rounded holds on the arete to the top

Steep edging off of a nice clean rock shelf. Hardest moves are at the bottom.

Some techy lie backing on a nice blocky feature will get you on better feet where you  an finally reach the top. Looks like there may be potential for a lower start.

On the backside of the Fallen Gypsy, an obvious traverse capped by a big roof block is seen.

The Vomitorium is a perfect atrium on the uphill side of the tunnel near the base of marshmallow tower. Death Vomit is directly over the uphill tunnel exit. Powerful mantle or face pull.

The hard part is a deadpoint pull off the deck. Once established on the face it turns into a 5.6 romp to the top. People use a cheat stone to bypass the 5.11 move. to set the tr rope.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Playground Area