This is THE 5.11 sport climb at the City.  It is a must do,  if you can find 2 ropes and enough draws. :)  The west side of Window rock is closed for the birds in the spring,  so check for closures in the parking lot.

This route is the second sport climb on the right side of the west face.  Scramble up a low 5th class ramp system from the right side of the climb.  There is a single belay bolt on the ramp.  Follow 17 bolts through continuous 5.10 and 5.11 terrain, with a crux at 2/3rd's height coming out of a depression in the wall.  The final 40 ft to the anchor is an endurance test on solid 5.10 climbing.

Rap with 2 ropes.  I have heard that a single 70M rope will work, but I have not tested this theory.

She's the Bosch

Singapore

Fear Factor

Brutal

Battle of the Bulges

Jet Lag

Reaper

Harvest

Chaos

Climb shallow right facing corners thru several tricky bulges.

Top 5 best 5.11 crack climbs at the City(IMO). Singapore doesn't get done that often as it has a fierce reputation. The pro is perfect until the end where it starts to flare a little and gets pumpy. Also Check out Battle of the Bulge about 50 yards to the right of Singapore.

Here's your list: Brown Flake(Morning Glory)

Scar Tissue(The Office)

Crack of Doom(Morning Glory)

Terror of Tiny Town(Buzzard)

Singapore(Window)

This is the long route to the right of She's the Bosch, starting on the same little ledge but 40ft right of the start of 'Bosch'.  It climbs up obvious bolts, passing first crux about 50 feet up, then romping through 5.10 terrain, passing a pin in an easy section, to the last headwall, where this route really gets good. This route is LONG! be aware that when lowering with a 70M rope you will definitely not be close to the ground. we left a biner on a bolt to get down.  knot your rope ends!   But definitely get on this route! It is a very nice addition to the area, and as good or better than She's the Bosch.

Starts up Chaos. At the intermediate anchor, head left and shuffle out the ramp, then engage the patina-covered bulge. Sparsely bolted.

Jet Lag is an excellent, steep sport route just to the left of

She's the Bosch

. The climb follows an ill-defined corner system.

Steep laybacking is the ticket, as the corner offers little in the way of footholds. Given the engaging moves and the wonderful position, I'd say Jet Lag is one of the best 5.12s in the City.

Power up the short, flared handcrack in the dihedral a little to the right of Harvest.  Finish on ledge about 30 feet off the deck.

Some slab, body English, great finger locks, and an offwidth finish sum it up.

Harvest

would be a classic except for the bushes in the lower crack.

The climb starts in a lower angle V before going vertical in a flared chimney for a move or 2. The crack moves on to the face with the crux above the small roof where rattly fingers lead to a great hand jam and a desperate move (for me) into the offwidth.

Descend from slings around a chockstone.

Chaos begins on a ledge system about 25-30 feet off the ground. This Ledge can be scrambled in on from the right of the route, or you can also climb and belay direct from the ground to reach the ledge system where the real climbing begins in an big and obvious overhanging right facing corner. The corner requires stemming and lie-backing up cracks and huecos and presents one powerful section before allowing for a rest on a sloping ledge about 35 feet up. Bolt placement seemed less than ideal to me in this corner. After a rest on the sloping ledge, a steep bulge awaits. This bulge can be cheated around, but, that's cheating. Above the bulge is the true crux of the route- a powerful section requiring big moves to hidden holds. Above the crux, the rock gets a bit grainy, and the finish follows a really cool dike feature to the chains- endurance is likely required to hold it together for the redpoint.

Description

Protection

Routes in Window Rock - West