A thin sequence down low leads to long powerful moves up high. Harder for shorter people. Three star movement and one star rock quality. Be careful in the spring.

Regurgitated Bird

Fist of Gold

Providence Crack

Texas Two Step

Next Time, Send a Card

Calling All Pro

Return to Sender

Slimestone Cowboy

Prohibition

White Courage

Moon Shine

Prospector

Edge of Darkness

Both Get Hard On Top

What's Left

Bootlegger

Distillery Edge

Step by Step

High Banker

What's Up

Fright Flight

Prospector Traverse

Gold Nugget

Ancient Sea Friends

My First Rodeo

Bootlegger is a great combination of slab, layback crack, face, and roof moves. The crux is in the roof section after the face traverse.

This climb follows the obvious crack up the middle of the face, and is one of the classics in the Columbia area. Start with a wide chimney, then grovel into an offwidth section. Bring large cams to protect this part. After the offwidth, continue climbing up a good and easy-to-protect hand crack until you get to a small roof, and the crack becomes more of a water groove. Place all the tricams you own on a shelf under the roof, then gun for the top. The crux occurs right when your feet get to the last piece of gear, but the runout after the crux is easy. This is a well-protected climb, but if you are not comfortable at 5.10, then there may be some major air time at the crux.

The hardest climbing is at the roof, but the upper corner contains some non-obvious and very interesting climbing.

Great for top roping. Route better left to experienced leaders if you are considering the trad option.

Three different route sections divide this route visualy into what can be descriped as bottom, middle and top crux transitions. The bottom crux is a balancy moderate layback, while the steep, middle buldge crux requires the use of an assortment of pockets, pinches, crimpers and slopers to gain the next secure jug. This middle crux can be bypassed by moving right a couple steps and climbing around using bigger holds. The top crux section forces fancy foot work and attetion to the little details while managing the left-facing edge.

This is the first bolted line to the right of ProvidenceCrack. Sustained climbing with the crux coming at the end. If you are at this cliff and think you might be able to get up a 5.12, you should get on this climb. Might be the best climb at the cliff.

This climb is the bolted climb left of ProvidenceCrack,? and was put up by the route artist, Jim Karpowicz. Climb up past two bolts to a crack in a right-facing dihedral. Protect the crack, then go right back onto the face to an undercling and a hard clip from the undercling. After getting the clip, pull a well-protected crux, then run it out to the top. The bottom offers some attention-getting moves, and the protection in the dihedral is probably good, but there is a good chance it would get tested if the leader is not comfortable at 5.10.

Crux tends to be the head game. Dig deep and just get yourself some more of that white courage from your chalk bag.

The crux is obvious and requires some power, a Few good smears and a lay back on a sloper. Looking forward to your comments. Three routes utilize the same start on BOTH GET HARD ON TOP: Gold Nugget (left), Fist of Gold (center), and Moon Shine (right)

Start up slab with loose rock to solid vertical face. High Banker heads straight up so continue moving up right to climb the right side of the upper ledge then continue up to the rap anchors.

Several crux point fall along this line. The first is a couple moves after pulling onto the steep middle section. The next crux is at the second small upper roof. The route follows a line dividing the light and dark rock.

Both Get Hard On Top (11a) is the first 45 feet (15M) of Gold Nugget. Climb the slab up to the vertical face where a pocket allows for the second clip before engaging the balancy transitions before and after the third bolt. Once you gain the "self of gold", move left and hug the "Gold Nugget"! Great holds provide an easy reach up to a large pocket from which the last bolt can be clipped to complete and lower from "Both Get Hard On Top", avoiding the hard crux sequence of Gold Nugget 12+.

Crux is on the middle steep slab face. Note that this area is new and will have a greater chance of potential loose rock.

This line follows pockets up a steep face to an upper right arete, then finishes with a slab traverse left to a flake and rap anchors.

Crux is around the first bolt but is designed for beginners learning to lead and set up rap station.

Several different crux sections provide different challenges, from a solid dead-point move,on the vertical face, to the use of slopers, while managing the small roofs, this route provides a bit of fun variety.

Prospector Traverse starts on My First Rodeo then heads right, following a crack traverse under the upper mantle ledge. Continue right to the rap anchors on White Courage.

Climb the easy warm up slab, do some stretches on the ledge, and then wedge yourself in the dihedrel and get ready to hang on for the next 20 feet.  The crux is very balancy and you will know it when you come to it!

Part of the left side trad ramp area. Great for a beginner traditional lead.

The Main Wall at Providence truly offers one of the state's better options for 5.12 sport climbing. Newer lines such as Gold Nugget and Return to Sender offer excellent support to classic trad and sport lines such as the super-classic layback Prohibition, Providence Crack, and Slimestone Cowboy. There is likely more potential for hard routes and linkups in this area. Take the grades with a grain of salt as many routes have seen very few ascents; things are still cleaning up, breaking off, and developing consensus. 

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Routes in Providence Main Wall