This fun, easy chimney/offwidth climbs the outside of the first crack/chimney to the right of the Big Boy/In and Out alcove. It is the chimney to the left of Bumpy. It has likely been climbed several times over the years due to its stunning visual appearance from the parking lot. In fact I may have soloed it in approach shoes about 20 years ago. Can't really remember. Senility has taken its toll. Due to the wavy nature of the rock, wide techniques are only needed in a very short section near the top.

First recorded ascent by T. Tech, B. Polovny and T. Gordon 02/2003

Gynogroove

Venus on the Half-Shell

Big Boy

Dike Flight

In And Out

Blast From the Past

C.C. Takes San Jose

Bolts With a Blast

Nuptual Sac

Bumpy

Bite Me

The Potato Gun

Felch

C-Section

This climb is in the back passage of the first chimney to the right of the In and Out / Big Boy alcove... It climbs the narrow inside passage that negotiates the depths behind Gynogroove.

From the ground, climb easy terrain up to the Gynogroove chimney, then walk back into the cleft until it widens. Climb up through the chimney until forced to squeeze horizontally into an interior room.

This route is definitely not recommended for portly climbers.

Interesting but grainy climbing past bolts and some gear placements.

This Starts about 15 feet right of "In and Out". Climb a left facing corner/wide crack, joining "In and Out" at the squeeze.

Climb the dike system that slants up and left via delicate and somewhat thrilling movement.

a somewhat contrived offwidth  you can avoid much of the hard climbing by stemming over to the route Big Boy.

This, the obvious wide crack that splits the north side of Split Dome, starts as an offwidth and widens higher into a chimney; lots of grain on this one.

This is a hand crack on excellent rock.  It is not in the 1992 Vogel guide.

Fun climbing up grainy scoops on this seldom visited portion of the rock.

Gear belay and scramble to descend.

This climb is on the N. Split Dome, faces NE , and is just in front of Bite Me.  It's not far from the parking lot, and has some interesting and challenging climbing.  The climb goes up a short crack at the start, then goes up steep, inprobable looking rock past some bolts.  There is a bolted anchor on top.  The rock quality isn't stellar, but the climbing is interesting and challenging.

An easy start leads to a high first bolt after which the climbing is sustained and well protected. Good moves on unusal rock make this a fun route to do when in the area.

The minimal approach and somewhat novel rock make this a route to seek out. One star out of five.

This is a grainy and unpleasant crack route, with the crux in the first 10.  It is not listed in the 1992 Vogel guide.

Located about 100 feet right of

Bumpy

on the north face of a free-standing pillar/spire. There is an incomplete project with three bolts on the boulder just right (south) of this climb.

Climb past some gravelly edges to reach more solid patina holds which lead one up and left. Rap off the south face via a two bolt anchor.

Kinda chossy but still fun in an odd sort of way.

This is the dual crack system located midway into the "split" of Split Dome and is 10 feet right of CC takes San Jose.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Split Dome (North Rock)