Start up the blocky lower section of easy climbing to reach the first bolt.  Laybacks, finger locks, cracks, sidepulls, and crimps with a couple of exciting moves lead you through the next three bolts and around the aerate to the last two bolts.

**Route is still a little dirty**

Stoners Aerate

Leflie

New Jersey Turnpike

First Stage

Mellow Arete

Berkeley Berserker

Flu Variation

Salt Water Flush

Unknown

Known 5.9 Face

Witch Doctor

Berkeley Boozer

Finally, a reason to bring a small rack to Berekely Camp! Start up the corner taking the large crack up to a good stance, starting trending left to clip the bolt and move up into the pod.  Follow the crack to the anchors.

Striking, blank-looking left arete/face - stick clip mandatory as the 1st bolt is very high.

Great movement on small but positive holds, climbs better (and I thought easier) than it looks.

This is the first route on the left of the steep part of the main Berkley Camp wall, to the left of Flu (5.11d) and the right of the 5.9 bolted slab climb.

Great route with bomber rock and great movement in a beautiful position. The first bolt is quite high, but the climbing is easy getting up to it.

Quality warmup for the area. Climb a less than vertical face on mostly big holds, with a thin crux near the 3rd bolt.

Start by climbing up some ledges, then move left into a crack. An arete with great holds takes you to the top. Would make an excellent first lead.

A 3 bolt 5.9 variation splits off to the right near the top on thin crimps for a couple moves to bigger holds, and its own anchor with chains.

This route features enjoyable movement and deserves more traffic.  Looks harder and dirtier than it climbs, and therefore seems to have an adventurous feel.

Climb up a series of laybacks, snag a rest, then tackle the thought-provoking bulge and mantle up to the chains.  Feet when you need 'em, good clipping positions, clean falls, and all-day shade make this route worth the walk.

Super route, sustained and varied. Maybe the best route on the Berkeley Camp wall.

Shares the start of New Jersey Turnpike.  Clip the first bolt,  then trend right to the roof, pull the roof to easier climbing above.

The first bolt is shared with the New Jersey Turn Pike.  At the first bolt head to your right up following the bolts over the budging face into the thin dihedral.  Finish on the same anchor as New Jersey Turn Pike.

Semi-classic thin Tahoe granite slab arete that will test your slab technique; sustained.

First bolt is about 15ft up, but it is easy climbing on good holds. Great route with good movement all the way to the end.  Crux is near the end of the route.

Splits off from Mellow Arete and has 3 bolts all to itself. You'll have to make it through a crimpy traverse with a few delicate moves before you can grab some thank-you-god holds that'll take you to the anchors. Multiple crux betas go at about the same grade.

Steep face climbing on edges and flakes to a roof about 3/4 of the way up. Listed in the Supertopo guide as 5.12b.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Berkeley Camp Rocks