Do Or Dike

Crack Kills

Jugular Vein

Adam's Rib

Australian for Beer

Freckle Face

Seebolt

Eve's Serpent

New Toy

This route starts off the left side of a boulder/ledge at the base of the wall, and climbs the nice face between "Jugular Vein" and "Do or Dike".

The first lead went straight up to the second bolt. Now it is led to the left.

A line of holds goes up excellent grey rock to a fairly new looking bolt. Move up and right to another bolt. Steep climbing up freckled rock passes two more bolts. The crux is after the last bolt.

There is a two bolt anchor on top.

There is a mystery bolt in the middle of three hairline dikes, down and left of the start.

This quality route is located on the shady north side of Stirrup Rock. Start up

New Toy

(5.6) for about 15' and then cut right to meet a vertical crack/dike which is followed to the top.

At the left (east) end of the north face of Stirrup Rock are a couple of thin intrusion dikes splitting the otherwise grainy face.  They are all guarded by an overhanging bulge at the foot of the wall, but the middle one can be accessed via some flakes.  Crimp the dike over the bulge past two bolts, then smear the grainy slab above past one more to a two-bolt anchor on a ledge.  Rap or lower off.

Tricky start that lead to some not so obvious side pulls and crimps all while underneath shiny bolts. The rock is a little crumbly but should clean up nicely with more laps.

Seebolt begins in a left-leaning hand and finger crack that starts off the far left side of a steep blank wall. Reach right to clip the first bolt and launch into the bouldery crux. Press out a steep mantle and continue onto the well-featured upper wall. Fun climbing on easier terrain leads to a fixed anchor.

An optional 1.5"-2" piece can supplement between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

On the east end of Stirrup Rock is a slab normally used for the descent.  On the right side of the slab is a dike with a steep bulge before easing back onto the slab.  Follow the dike through the bulge and up the slab to a bolted rap anchor.  Rap or downclimb the left side of the slab.

This climbs the obvious left-slanting crack system on the left edge of the shady north face of Stirrup Rock. Work your way down into the "pit" at the base and climb off a boulder into the crack.

Jugular Vein

(5.8) climbs this route and then cuts right to join a crack/dike system. Rap off bolts to climbers left to descend.

This is another route that receives mention in the Winger's 60 Classics/Trad Guide to Joshua Tree.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Stirrup Rock - North Face