Start with either hand on the tooth-like incut crimp at 8 ft (the bloody flapper hold).  Make a few hard moves to get the jug and finish easily.  With the right beta this problem will feel fairly easy, without the right beta it may feel hard.  The finish while high is easy just watch out for loose rock.  Don't let the name scare you while the starting hold is sharp none of the other holds are too bad.

Bloody Flapper

The Bore

Pussy Route

Dean's Journey

Free willy

Banana Juice

Gloria

Lip Sync

Shamu

The crux is releasing the left hand from the sloper to lean out to the good sloping rail, matching it, and holding the swing.   

  One of the most unique boulder problems in Hueco Tanks if not the world, Dean's Journey is a unique experience full of fun thuggy moves bizarre mantles and improbable holds.

Hard climbing on jugs, sketchy top out so tread lightly.

Start on two jugs to a left crimp. Climb up and exit on jugs.

Note: My understanding is that the holds to the left (on the Pussy Route) are off limits for Free Willy.  

  Start with a good right hand in the low pockets and a left sloping crimp. You can start with a right heel hook by your right hand and a left back step (traditional beta), or just toe down on some bad feet. Go left hand to the sloper, right hand to the tooth and continue up and eventually right on pretty decent crimps. The finish can be done one of two ways: go left hand to the bad crimp, hike a high right foot and dyno to the lip with your right hand, or you can use the bad 1/4" sloping crimp with your right as an intermediate before going to the lip. Not really sure which one is easier, but I felt the intermediate was more consistent.

Start on good holds on the far right of the Lost Cause boulder. Traverse left into Bloody Flapper, staying low where Lip Sync climbs up and left. Finish on Bloody Flapper.

This problem bakes in the sun for most of the day making it a good stop at the end of the day or on a cloudy day.  Start on good holds at the left side of the face.  Move through two pockets and hit a thin slot up and right.  From here make a shoulder move to a big hold for the left hand, one more move leads to good holds for the top out.

Fun climbing on incut jugs. The start is the crux, start on the very right side of the boulder and follow the jugs left working upwards to a good lip. Once you hit the dish, mantle the lip and climb straight up to top out.

Start Free Willy, but continue up through thin holds to a less victorious final crux. This less contrived, more direct variation of Free Willy utilizes the thin left hand crimp you normally dyno from as a right hand instead. It is an excellent problem in it's own right, and for those who can't pull the dyno of FW, a good consolation prize.

Great area with climbs for everyone on this boulder or near it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost Cause Boulder