It's a nice, little V1+ problem. It is only a 3 move, low ball problem, but it's good for beginners to learn the basics of crimps and crystals.

It starts out with obvious footing on the right, but the rest of the climb is generally smeary. Your hands start out with a small crystal in the middle of a slope on the right hand side. I found that it was easier to wrap my thumb around it and cup the slope. On the left, you have a gnarly crimp angled slightly to the left. After that, you just stick to the arete and do what you have to do using the various crimps and crystals along the way.

Arretion

Loonaner

Impeach the Bushes

Entrance Exam

Lots of dirt, loose rock, and moss. Most cleaned off.

Pretty fun, little problem. You basically stick to the arete and climb the west face. When you are at the top, it's best to stretch across to your left before topping out. Otherwise, it's really awkward.

Basically named so because it is the first problem you can climb in the canyon, and...this problem is pretty typical of all boulder problems in the area (meaning gnarly, granite crystals covered in moss, and slopes).

It's best if used as a sit down start, but nothing too hard. Just fun to let your hands get used to the rock in the area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Englemann Canyon (submitted as Ruxton Canyon, Manitou Springs)