On Buttress # 7. Climb the chimney using all the shelves.

Would I?

Mel's Route

Simple Solo

Central Buttress Direct

Thunder Road

The Nose That Roared

Pro-found

Great Wall (center trad line)

Tuition

Don Genero

Bondage and Discipline

Right Hand Drive

Fruition

Flattered

Strapaducktome

EB, Phone Home

The Rotwand Direct

The Great Wall (center - aka the Pumper)

The Rotwand

Great Wall Left

Shattered

The Tongue That Swung

Harelip

Dead Men Don't Eat Roughage

Knuckle Sandwich

From the ledge five feet off the ground on the front of buttress #7, follow two parallel thin cracks up a short overhanging face. Continue up through a steep scoop facing right to the top.

Start at an obvious 4 inch crack and follow to it's end. Move right into the corner and follow to top.

On the right side of the downstream wall of buttress #6, near the entrance to the arch, climb the short harder looking open book, moving around the outside corner to the right at its top, then up to top.

Climb up the center of the buttress beneath the obvious wide crack, move right into a thin crack, through an overhang about twelve feet off the ground. Go over the overhang at the crack. Continue to the top, finishing directly over the larger overhang there. Be aware that the last overhang, at least in the eighties, had a large block sticking out. When making the moves out and over, pulling on the block it "clunks" down. Bring spare shorts for this.

The right side of the large overhang on the downstream side of buttress #6. Start at the left side. Climb broken rock to the second ledge, then attack the overhangs from the center of the ledge. Above the lip follow a short crack to the top.

This wall is broken by a large groove in the center. Climb the groove to the top.

Climb the left face of the pillar at a very thin crack past a small overhang and up to top.

On the Great Wall, only the center 5.8 route was led, via headpoint.  

  As I understand it this route now sports four bolts.In which case the protection rating would change considerably.

Start as for Fruition, move over onto the right wall before reaching the corner. Stay about 5 feet right of the Fruition corner.

Follow a thin crack from the left edge of the ledge at the base of Don Genero up the overhanging wall passing a ledge and into an offset overhang, then on to the top.

The right hand side of the leaning pillar to start, then up a crack on the main face.

This is the first route we did at the Edge, and perhaps the most obvious line. Pro is good,sting is in the tail. I think it's the best route here.  

  Climb the steep rock near the center of the wall into an inside corner facing left. Follow the crack over a small overhang to a cedar tree at the top.

Begin five feet uphill from the lowest point of the wall. Move up following a broken crack to a sloping ledge. Continue following a curving crack moving left through two shallow depressions before reaching the block on the ledge. Continue straight up to the top.

The obvious groove in the middle of buttress #8. Follow the groove for ten feet, move left passing an overhang, up into an alcove, exiting left.

Behind the Great Wall you can scramble up into a vee shaped area formed by the two buttresses. EB takes a line up the center of the downstream wall side.

This route starts with a crimpy boulder problem right off the deck, protected by small gear.  After reaching the horizontal, plug good gear move slightly right and continue up on decent crimps.  Pass a solid nut placement and run it out to the top!

Slick, Slippery, Polished, Pumpy, Fun!  Classic climbing on smooth red Lockatong Formation argillite interspersed with friable Brunswick Formation shale...

From the back of the V, hand traverse with little protection out the upstream wall to the nose. Clip a pin and move up to the top.

Similar climbing to the pumper along the left side of the face

Back in the corner, follow a thin finger crack without stepping off left. Climb directly over the flaky overhang to finish.

Climb the face below the prominent tongue,then out to the tip of the tongue. Move left and up to the top.

The smaller chimney on the right, within the larger chimney of Would I? Follow chimney to top, passing a constriction.

Climb the face passing to the right of a small evergreen. Continue past horizontal cracks and shelves. Exit just left of the small overhang at the top.

Climb the wall a few feet right of the corner,passing an overhang about ten feet off the ground,continue to the top.

The Edge is located on private property and is currently CLOSED TO CLIMBING.  The landowner does not tolerate trespassing and climbers have been asked to leave.  If you would like to help resolve access issues here and elsewhere, please consider joining and donating to the  Access Fund. The following info is for historical purposes only:I ( Tom Stryker ) contacted a friend who co-authored an old Stover guide with me, and he did have our Edge notes, and graciously organized and mailed them to me. There are 32 trad routes that were led ground up on gear and a few pins. Mel Hamel, Tom Moffatt and I , had our run of the place, and climbed the lines we could with the gear we had at the time.The original sequence numbers will be a little difficult to use as we always approached from the downstream end (climber's right), but the upstream end (climber's left) is used now.Only four climbs had fixed gear at the time, between 1981 and 1983, two each in the area behind the Great Wall, one pin on Fruition and one on Thunder Road. In some cases small cams which were not available at the time may allow ascents of climbs where the pitons disappeared, but use some care, particularly on the Rotwand, as we were in deck territory every time we went out the the nose to work on getting some gear.As I understand it, some routes have been bolted on the Great Wall. The most common center route on this wall has been led on gear at 5.8 X. We did some other routes that were pretty bold, and I am concerned these would get bolted unknowingly. If you are planning to bolt more routes there I would appreciate any opportunity to fill you in on existing trad routes there.Buttresses and routes, from upstream to downstream.Rotwand* The RotwandGreat Wall* EB, Phone Home* Great Wall Nose* Great Wall (center trad line)* Great Wall right variationLeaning Pillar* Pro-found* Right Hand DriveButtress 8* Strapaducktome * Bondage and DisciplineButtress 7* Don Genero* Would I?* HarelipButtress 6* Three Stooges Go Climbing* Thunder Road* Simple SoloCentral Buttress (Buttress 5)* Monster Mash* Tryin' Times* Stop the Presses* Central Buttress Direct* Knuckle Sandwich* The Nose That RoaredButtress 4 is short and has no routes.Buttress 3* Shattered* FlatteredFruition Buttress (Buttress 2)* Limburger Groove* Self Cleaning* Fruition* TuitionButtress 1* Dead Men Don't Eat Roughage* Mel's Route* The Tongue That Swung

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Edge (Closed)