"   Starts right below the bolts. From the first ledge  go up left of bolts until you get to drill hole. At drill hole, cross right and climb body over the bolt. Then go up two thin finger ledges above bolt. Can also layback on drill holes. Last panel, clip the bolt and stay on the left 3'. Last move is hard on fingery holds, can use all shelves from bolted panel and panel on left.   "   Dry toolers stay off this route or the top, you are ruining the last moves. 

  Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear   if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax

7) Crack With No Name

2) Body and Soul

I Still Believe

0.1) Do You Think I'm Saxy?

4) Sax-a-holic

3) Morphine

5) Multiple SAX Partners

1) A Little Spicy!!!

"   For start, right of bolt in the angling right crack.From the first ledge go up to immedge right of bolts to finger ledges.From second  ledge, go up finger holds up the panels and use finger holds on right and left of panel, and then do layback at top. Clipping the bolt is a bit of a stretch but can be done if you get your feet high enough. Use long draw too. Last panel, go up same panel where bolt is, can't use holds on left or right. Tall man reach to get to hand ledge. Above the bolt go straight up the final panel, use half moon tiny old, very slopy, use drill holes for feet."

 Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear   if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Trad climb crack that starts on far right and traverses left to middle of wall. Excellent trad crack that sucks gear. Great holds and feet. Some overhangs with big holds. Finish at birch tree in middle of wall.

 Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear   if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Start left of bolt, crimpy undercling. Hard move with hole in it, then head straight up. At first ledge go right a little, then angle back left lying back left. Follow ledges up climbing thru the bolts. 

  Named by a great sax man Pat Makin for John Coltrane and best sax ballad ever written. 

  Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear   if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Between Body & Soul & Morphine. TR & start on “Body & Soul” traverse right at drill hole undercling to a hand match on little foot chips (crux)- Reach the ledge & cruise through the remaining 5.8 zone. A direct start would be interesting & tough.

Very left of Sax Wall. Well bolted 5.8 meant for aspiring leaders. 

  Start in corner. Clip first bolt a little high. Easy to next bolt and begin crux. Look out for  sloper! Try to head for drill hole on right, use your feet in big crack. 

  If you make the crux its easiest if you swing over right. But more cool if you go straight up over the overhang. 

  Rest is easy, last move to bolts is a little hard but on huge huge holds. Pull ups work. 

  Bolted by dreez: 5/14/2012 

  Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear   if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

From the start below drill hole go right over drill hole. From the second ledge, go straight over the first two bolts, at second bolt there is secret move and go straight up through the bolts to huge hand hold. Right over the bolts using tiny finger ledges, to bigger finger ledges. Head right after last bolt. 

  Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear   if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Start below bolt and go over bolt and straight up using small hand holds above bolt.  From first ledge go straight up over bolts.    When get to cave, use left side of cave only, stay to immediate right of bolts.  Climb over the bolts at the end, can use arete.  

  Named for a band called Morphine with a great sax section 

  Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear   if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Start left of bolt. Use foot ledges on left and lie back on good drill hole edges up high left and right. 

  Was named because it gets "spicy" above last bolt but I went back and bolt protected it. Joe said this is a sax solo for some punk band. 

  Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear   if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

West facing great for winter climbing on warmer days with sun. In summer better to start in morning and bring bug spray of course. Great collection of 5.9's, 10's and one 11. All routes are accessible from the top so they can be TR'd.  To gain access to the top anchors, approach is 50 yards to the right next to Drill Hole Wall.  

  If leading, beware of multiple ledges to avoid ankle injuries. 

  You can climb on Diagonals and Sax walls in the winter when it is 40 degrees or higher on a sunny day no wind. Diagonals faces south and Sax faces west. Sax comes into the sun at 12:30pm. It is a little Dutch Oven sheltered from the wind. Enjoy! almost year round....

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sax Wall