Vertical face.  Maybe veers left at top.  Got to be one of the most obscure routes at Windy Point. Does anyone even know how to find this route ?

 I used to climb with Ed Olsen back then, but now I can't even picture his face.  An early sport route for me... I was still getting used to the idea of bolting.  Ed and Tony both REALLY wanted me to fail on this route, which meant I was sure to flash it.

Tanger Box

R-2 D-2

Out on Bail

Border Patrol

ET Arete

Jabba the Butt

Obe Wan Kanobee

Millennium Falcon

Team Toads

Litigation

Bop Til You Drop

Asleep at the Wheel

Moving over Stone

Trauma Center

Chewrocka

Pocket of Resistance

This is found on Rupley tower E.  From the gully between towers C and D, go up the chimney to the southwest (right side facing downhill).  The route starts at a wide crack by a small tree.  Directly opposite from an opening overlooking the tri-level spire.  Stay mostly right of the crack to keep the route at the grade.  Fun route for a new leader.

A nice short route that is worth doing if you are there.  Make sure you are keeping your head about you as you make your way towards the first bolt.  The climbing is not hard, but the rock is not the greatest quality. 

  Note:  The guide says 5.10-.  Maybe this is splitting hairs, but for those who have made their way around Windy Point I would say this climb is easier that Ego Donor (5.9), and Recovery Room (5.10-).

Approach as for R1 through R3.  Further along this wall at the last tower (before the Tri-Level), you will find a bolt line.  This is Moving Over Stone, 5.11.  Just to the right of this there is a ramp leading right to a bolt (the direct start straight up to the bolt is very thin 5.10).  This is R4.  Climb past the lone bolt to the crack in the roof.  Up this to a large chimney. 

  Long route with lots of pro available.

A fun enough route with the quintessential quartz band climbing of Windy Point, and a nice view if you care to look over you're shoulder as your headed towards the anchors.

Nice solid route on the arete at the southernmost part of the Rupley Towers (Tower G), right opposite Cliptomania on the Tri Lever Spire.

This route climbs the downhill side of Tower C (from EFR's book).  This is the tower to the Northeast of the prominent gully (you can descend this gully and step across the the belay for pitch 1 if you so desire).  (1)  Climb ramp up and left toward bolts.  Climb face past 5 bolts angling left about 45 degrees to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay.  (2)  Up and right toward the squeeze to a ledge just below and right of the summit.  Either belay on this ledge behind the squeeze (without an anchor) or climb up summit block to cold-shuts.  The former provides for less rope-drag, the latter for more security.  Either rap off the back side from the summit, or rap the route in two raps.

only did 1st pitch on tr. would be a scetchy lead. didnt see much pro. fun tr though. if yer between towers d and e you can rap down using the 2nd belay station. its in the v slot behind jabba the butt. groove to ledge move right to face and crack. second pitch looks great

This is found on Rupley tower E.  From the gully between towers C and D, go up the chimney to the southwest (right side facing downhill).  Look up at the face to the right until you see the "Butt" - it is a very well named route.  Slabby start to a ledge below the butt, which pretty close to the ground.  Clip the bolt on the right cheek and make like a hemorrhoid,  Once you get past the butt it is much easier climbing above.  Squuezing the Lemmon has this at 5.10-

On Tower E. Starts in chimney left of anchor bolt. Lower cruxes well protected by 2 bolts. Middle section accepts ample gear, not a lot of opportunity to protect the upper section, but not much of a need to either.

This is a face route just right of R2-D2.  Look up the route and you can see a rock formation that looks kind of like the famous freighter from Star Wars.  Slabby start to the first bolt, then interesting face moves to the chains.  This is probably the same route that Squeezing the Lemmon calls "R-Senio 5.7X" that Scott Ayers originally soloed in 1991.  Bolted circa 1999 by Ben Burnham.  Call it what you will, it is worth climbing if you are in the area looking for a shady moderate lead.

Located on the west face of Tower C in the gap above the rap station over Bop till you Drop.  To find the start, look for a small crack/ledge angling up to the right with a bolt above it to the right.  Follow the bolts to a nice ledge with a horizontal where you can (and should) place a #2 Camalot (Maybe even a #3).  Step up to the left onto the face and follow the bolts to the chains.

First bolt is pretty far off the deck. I'd call this at least PG-13 if not R... Falling before clipping the first bolt would not be pleasant. Caveat Emptor... Can also be done as one long pitch with long runners. Can be TR'd from shared anchor on P1 of R3.

This is located on Squat Rock, straight downhill (not far) from Rupley Towers.  The easiest approach may be to start down the narrow gully to the Southwest side of this tower, and look to your left on the tower for a rappel anchor.  This is where the route ends.  Rappel off of this anchor. 

  The route climbs the singular crack in the face.  It begins as a seam, with a few tough moves to get established in the crack at a good stance.  The crack continues up through some horizontal white bands, and past a horizontal crack (another okay stance).  Above this the wall steepens and the crack becomes off-fingers to fingers, and ends on a mantle.  Either step left here for very easy climbing into the gully, or step right and turn the bulge through another tips crack and up to the chains. 

  Walkoff up to the left toward Rupley Towers. 

  EFR's book rates this as 5.9+, but it is solid 5.10.  This is a pumpy route with few good stances.  The crack takes finger locks okay, but is somewhat shallow in places, and hard to jam.

On the second tower from the North (Tower B in EFR's book), just to the right of a chimney (route: R2, 5.6+) you will see a ledge about 30 feet up with a tree and a two-bolt belay.  (1)  Climb up flake past left facing corner under a bolt to this ledge.  (2)  Climb straight up left facing corner to crack, then face to top of tower.  You can descend to the back side easily with one rappel.  If you need to return to the base of the route, you can probably BARELY reach the belay ledge from pitch 1 with a 60m rope.  The second pitch is exactly 30m.  Be careful, and knot the ends of your rope if you rap the route!

Nice 5.9 line, in between the two small roofs at the bottom of Rupley Tower D, all the way to the top.  

  Because of a broken hold, there is one hard move, which by the opinion of the guide-book makes it a 5.11, but in my opinion the move is not that hard.

Mixed route with a couple bolts right where you need them. Start up cracks, then step right into the dihedral, stemming and liebacking up to the crux. Crux is well protected as it is just above last bolt.  

  Crux Beta: While stemming the dihedral, move feet up carefully to find solid high right hand crimp (amongst a sea of slopers).

This is found on Rupley tower E.  From the gully between towers C and D, go up the chimney to the southwest (right side facing downhill).  Find Jabba the Butt, then start a little to the right on a slabby start to a horizontal undercling crack.  Traverse right on the undercling and then up at the right side.  Multiple cruxes with interesting moves.

This is a great route that starts with a little adventure, which may deter some from roping up and giving it a whirl.  From the relatively comfy hanging belay in the gully bridge the gap onto the the NE face of Rupley Tower B (per STL III).  Enjoy the seams and large flakes that take you through the first several bolts before being deposited onto the upper face for some quintessential Mt. Lemmon edging complete with several pocket moves.  Fancy footwork will help on this one and there are several moves where you really need to trust that sticky rubber.I found the middle 20 feet to be the crux followed by a nice little run to the chains on easier terrain above.It's easy to see why the one gets a little less traffic than the neighboring climbs of Big Pine Towers, all with nice belay areas, but it's well worth the added effort.  I feel certain that if not for the less than ideal belay that third star might be well deserved.    

Classic Mt. Lemmon climbing.  You must try the Rupley Routes (R1 through R4).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rupley Towers